tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-91360406032921063592024-03-14T11:28:00.210+00:00SewRuthSewRuth has moved to
http://corecouture.wordpress.com/
All original posts are available on wordpressRuthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.comBlogger172125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-10267848217054822342013-05-18T11:37:00.001+01:002014-04-18T20:59:18.213+01:00May UpdateHi, it's lovely that you are coming here to read about what I've sewn but I lost a lot of pictures recently and started a new sewing blog over at Wordpress instead.<br />
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SewRuth has no new sewing posts but if you update your blog list, or reader, or whatever with this address http://corecouture.wordpress.com/<br />
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<a href="http://corecouture.wordpress.com/2013/05/18/may-2/" target="_blank">Corecouture</a> is my new blog sphere so head on over to catch up.<br />
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Thanks<br />
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RuthRuthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-5253903360950323292013-05-05T19:57:00.002+01:002013-05-10T23:40:29.000+01:00Moved......Go here<br />
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http://corecouture.wordpress.com/<br />
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thanks RuthRuthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-19948771222775259362013-04-24T22:41:00.001+01:002013-04-24T22:41:48.171+01:00Ch.. C.. Ch..Changes<br />
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Things are changing around here.<br />
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I've lost a load of photos from this blog - actually I deleted them from an online photo album not realising that they were connected to the blog posts! Technie, me?<br />
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I had given up on SWAP '13, then I was on track, then I got fed up and now, I might just be back in....<br />
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I have a new blog over at Wordpress - http://corecouture.wordpress.com/<br />
It has a new name - <a href="http://corecouture.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">corecouture</a>, but all the usual rubbish is still there!<br />
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I'm still learning and changing things, so please bear with me until I get it all sorted.<br />
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Some things I'm not sure about are:<br />
1. Where do the followers go to? I'm sorry if you have signed up to follow SewRuth, I'll try and move you over to corecouture.<br />
2. My inspirational blog list needs reconfigured in corecouture - do not be alarmed - I'm still reading your wonderful postings<br />
3. In time SewRuth will be deleted.<br />
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Thanks for meeting with me here and it was great fun getting to know you all.<br />
Please pop over to corecouture to continue our friendship.<br />
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In the meantime, I'll be sorting out corecouture and making another Chanel jacket.<br />
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I may be some time......<br />
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Love Ruth<br />
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-88093259001456140552013-04-18T22:40:00.001+01:002013-04-19T07:09:34.821+01:00Unforgettable and Unpredictable Oh thank you all so very much for keeping me sane and all (most) admitting that you too remembered Rive Gauche - yo<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">u really have no idea how reassuring</span> all those comments were after that <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/rive-gauche.html" target="_blank">surreal episode in the fabric shop.</a><br />
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And to make me even happier Anon has stopped commenting too. So thanks for the advice on that front too.</div>
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So back to Rive....</div>
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A cotton/linen mix in soft black. I'm not a big fan of black but I'm trying to introduce it gradually into my wardrobe, especially when I see the creations that <a href="http://communingwithfabric.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/butterick-5679-knit-top-with-drapey.html" target="_blank">Shams</a> and <a href="http://fool4fabric.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/the-challenge.html" target="_blank">Margy</a> produce in monochrome. I know that black on black does not work for me so I always aim to add a splash of colour somewhere to lift it.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qZqusrXTCO4/UXBZ9DxAgKI/AAAAAAAAHuE/5hU40e0FTro/s1600/M5938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qZqusrXTCO4/UXBZ9DxAgKI/AAAAAAAAHuE/5hU40e0FTro/s200/M5938.jpg" width="189" /></a>The pattern is a long jacket - McCalls 5938, sadly OOP, but still available on their website.</div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kztm7MX1AkI/UXBZ9J3F2sI/AAAAAAAAHuA/HiS0vBouDX8/s1600/M5938.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="115" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kztm7MX1AkI/UXBZ9J3F2sI/AAAAAAAAHuA/HiS0vBouDX8/s400/M5938.gif" width="400" /></a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px; border-collapse: collapse; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Semi-fitted, lined jacket with welt pockets and flaps, back princess seams, notched collar, two-piece sleeves with button trim, shoulder pads, back vent opening and below hipline length.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px; border-collapse: collapse; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px; border-collapse: collapse; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I added three buttons to the front and made the ones on the sleeves work properly - my construction was somewhere between home sewer and tailoring - damn you Ms Schaeffer! I must now tape my front edges and padstitch the collar: my linings must be fell stitched in place and my vented sleeve buttons must open. I used a fusible interfacing (first time ever) for the fronts and lapels and I did try a new technique for the sleeve heads too and was mightily impressed with the results. </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px; border-collapse: collapse; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px; border-collapse: collapse; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">You all know that the hole the sleeve goes into and the sleeve are two different sizes and shapes? And you do all that stuff with gathering stitches and easing and pins and stuff on the sleeve? Well try this....you either need a mannequin or a live person.</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UjiOTh3O3qg/UXBXVMHZ8aI/AAAAAAAAHso/Mx47F-UTKOA/s1600/DSCN3672.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UjiOTh3O3qg/UXBXVMHZ8aI/AAAAAAAAHso/Mx47F-UTKOA/s400/DSCN3672.JPG" width="272" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 2px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 2px; border-collapse: collapse; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Hang the jacket on the mannequin (or model) with shoulder pad in place and pinch the excess fullness at the back. Using a hand worked chain stitch distribute this fullness over the sleeve head creating little puckers as you sew. Press these little gathers out with steam and the sleeve head will shrink to this shape.</span></span><br />
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See the pic below. On the left - stitched and steamed and fitted to the mannequin. On the right - as nature intended - baggy and loose.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-daouPN4hl1A/UXBXVRjI2yI/AAAAAAAAHsw/SZxTEw4SVxI/s1600/DSCN3671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-daouPN4hl1A/UXBXVRjI2yI/AAAAAAAAHsw/SZxTEw4SVxI/s640/DSCN3671.JPG" width="624" /></a></div>
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While the jacket is cooling and drying, gather the sleeve crown on the sleeves with a loose running stitch. Pull the threads to create the familiar gathers and secure them. Now press the crown, shrinking out the gathers to create a smooth and curved shape to the sleeve.</div>
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Hopefully by now, the two are a better fit for each other - the sleeve head and the sleeve crown - so carry on and insert the sleeve in your preferred manner. One word of caution and that is keep the sleeve hanging straight - don't twist it or pull it.</div>
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Sew in the shoulder pads for real and always, always, insert some wadding in the sleeve head for shape and structure. See a good tailoring book on how to do this properly. These books are worth their weight in gold for this instruction alone and even if you are only making a casual jacket, like this one, a perfect sleeve is worth it. </div>
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And there is it - no puckers or gathers - went in first time and hangs beautifully. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PV1U3vImckk/UXBXVXq8DeI/AAAAAAAAHss/GlwWB-KHeSM/s1600/DSCN3676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y2Y4s2rHKXc/UXBXV73EH1I/AAAAAAAAHs8/kc9u3HqGaj4/s1600/DSCN3682.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="590" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y2Y4s2rHKXc/UXBXV73EH1I/AAAAAAAAHs8/kc9u3HqGaj4/s640/DSCN3682.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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And the Rive Gauche blue?<br />
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For the lining, my dears, and the working sleeve hems to roll up and reveal the flash of colour. And I'll look just like Claudia Winkleman from the Great British Sewing Bee.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d3LDBEO2Eg4/UXBXV6AlL_I/AAAAAAAAHs4/-wZm4dixKCQ/s1600/DSCN3677.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d3LDBEO2Eg4/UXBXV6AlL_I/AAAAAAAAHs4/-wZm4dixKCQ/s400/DSCN3677.JPG" width="300" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PV1U3vImckk/UXBXVXq8DeI/AAAAAAAAHss/GlwWB-KHeSM/s1600/DSCN3676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PV1U3vImckk/UXBXVXq8DeI/AAAAAAAAHss/GlwWB-KHeSM/s400/DSCN3676.JPG" width="298" /></a></div>
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Vented pockets with flaps<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hdAAUIPpY7Y/UXBXWifbyuI/AAAAAAAAHtI/E5oAAf5-OvY/s1600/DSCN3713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hdAAUIPpY7Y/UXBXWifbyuI/AAAAAAAAHtI/E5oAAf5-OvY/s400/DSCN3713.JPG" width="170" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M25FmY9HrwA/UXBXWFez0EI/AAAAAAAAHtA/xQbyCTQULKY/s1600/DSCN3711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M25FmY9HrwA/UXBXWFez0EI/AAAAAAAAHtA/xQbyCTQULKY/s400/DSCN3711.JPG" width="225" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TzP0-SpsPaw/UXBXW_x5kHI/AAAAAAAAHtM/w0GYkmXtoPY/s1600/DSCN3719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TzP0-SpsPaw/UXBXW_x5kHI/AAAAAAAAHtM/w0GYkmXtoPY/s320/DSCN3719.JPG" width="317" /></a><br />
Three buttons, not one<br />
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I have a similar coloured blouse made years ago which accidentally matches well. So I have my black and my colour.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fem3wSVUb_A/UXBXW2SiXVI/AAAAAAAAHtQ/Y5pKnY3ZHeY/s1600/DSCN3720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fem3wSVUb_A/UXBXW2SiXVI/AAAAAAAAHtQ/Y5pKnY3ZHeY/s400/DSCN3720.JPG" width="206" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a63cD2mhvxo/UXBXXEyrIiI/AAAAAAAAHtY/7jr6RPAs5S8/s1600/DSCN3729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a63cD2mhvxo/UXBXXEyrIiI/AAAAAAAAHtY/7jr6RPAs5S8/s400/DSCN3729.JPG" width="187" /></a>Long to hide the behind with a centre back vent</div>
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Do I look like a Rive Gauche bottle?<br />
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Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-47846821228540690172013-04-16T22:41:00.000+01:002013-04-16T22:41:05.788+01:00Rive GaucheA funny thing happened the other day on the way to the fabric shop......well actually it happened<b> in </b>the fabric shop.<br />
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I'd a bit of time to kill (dead time, as I like to call it and those of you who are well versed in childrearing will understand completely this terminology) so instead of heading home to turn around and go back out again - I went to the fabric shop.<br />
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I went with an idea in my head that was relatively unformed as this stage - something was brewing but even I didn't know what it was until it manifested itself onto the unsuspecting individuals who were queuing behind me to pay for their purchases.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rpmCHOw3mgY/UW3A0npl_BI/AAAAAAAAHr4/PsKIPDN6UhM/s1600/yves-saint-laurent-ysl-rive-gauche-100ml-edt-w--2501-p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rpmCHOw3mgY/UW3A0npl_BI/AAAAAAAAHr4/PsKIPDN6UhM/s320/yves-saint-laurent-ysl-rive-gauche-100ml-edt-w--2501-p.jpg" width="320" /></a>Suddenly, and without preamble or warning, I turned 180 degrees, regarded the woman immediately behind me, and did some quick mental calculations based on crow's feet and lip-puckers that she was equal to or greater in age than me and blurted out,<br />
"Do you remember Rive Gauche?"<br />
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Blank. Cat-in-headlights stare!<br />
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Rive Gauche - Paris Left Bank the home of the artistes and artists along the Seine?<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BR1-lRiPUx0/UW3B0bW-2mI/AAAAAAAAHsI/sfIfMEMqWOM/s1600/paris-rive-gauche-002-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BR1-lRiPUx0/UW3B0bW-2mI/AAAAAAAAHsI/sfIfMEMqWOM/s320/paris-rive-gauche-002-1.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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I skipped the one behind her (too young) and aimed directly for the woman next in the line,<br />
"Do YOU remember Rive Gauche? You know the perfume by YSL? About 1980?"<br />
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More blank stares and the slightly '<i>be kind to her</i>' facial expressions.<br />
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I then addressed both queues (needless to say the shop just happened to be busy that day) and the sales assistants too - well, actually loud enough for the entire shop to join in if they'd wanted to; I believe I may have climbed onto a soapbox at this point and exclaimed:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VEVWbOwUfBQ/UW3A0o0x_vI/AAAAAAAAHr8/FyEhIU9agEc/s1600/1981-Yves-Saint-Laurent-Rive-Gauche1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VEVWbOwUfBQ/UW3A0o0x_vI/AAAAAAAAHr8/FyEhIU9agEc/s400/1981-Yves-Saint-Laurent-Rive-Gauche1.jpg" width="282" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AvS_gGo-S08/UW3ChG_CZZI/AAAAAAAAHsY/rmS22tL54no/s1600/images.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AvS_gGo-S08/UW3ChG_CZZI/AAAAAAAAHsY/rmS22tL54no/s1600/images.jpeg" /></a>"Does anyone remember the YSL perfume Rive Gauche from 1980? Anyone?"</h3>
Apparently, Northern Ireland missed the 1980s - I was in London at the time. Living under Maggie Thatcher and living the high life. However, I did actually begin to doubt my own sanity and memory being overwhelmed with such a wall of 'what-is-she-talking-about/negativity' in the shop.<br />
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What I was really looking for was a second opinion on the colour/shade of blue for a jacket lining - I didn't give a s**t if anyone truly remembered the perfume.<br />
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Regardless, (this is MY word and I predicate my life upon it) I bought what I believed to represent Rive Gauche and just had to Google it when I got home to make sure I hadn't imagined the whole decade of 1980.<br />
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<i>Coco - I need you now - please tell me you remember Rive Gauche! You don't need to like it just, like me, you physically remember it.</i><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qaam4CG1iXY/UW3ChXG-_4I/AAAAAAAAHsQ/Hex39IhN8p0/s1600/images-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qaam4CG1iXY/UW3ChXG-_4I/AAAAAAAAHsQ/Hex39IhN8p0/s400/images-1.jpeg" width="301" /></a></div>
If someone out there confirms that they bought/used/was gifted/remembers Rive Gauche, then I shall reveal the garment - otherwise I fear I am heading into Never-Never Land and if I go there I may be never heard of again....... Ahhhhhhhhhhh<br />
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Shoulder pads and hard stares - there's no turning back!</div>
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I''d also appreciate a translation into English of the adverts' bylines. Merci.</div>
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com28tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-19106930953288523812013-04-08T22:42:00.000+01:002013-04-08T22:45:19.888+01:00Anon<div style="text-align: left;">
<i>This is in honour of all those anonymous comments that are written by considerate and caring individuals who think we want to read their well penned gibberish and 'check out' their websites. I mean, they're not annoying at all - I just love spending my precious time moving them into spam and then deleting them - I have removed all the website links to save you, my true readers, from any distractions. In the meantime - to Anonymous - </i><i>Thank you for commenting and taking the time to read my blog posts.</i><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pm3hCwDHX84/UWMz5DZU96I/AAAAAAAAHqQ/vTRG1s8kWzE/s1600/V8851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pm3hCwDHX84/UWMz5DZU96I/AAAAAAAAHqQ/vTRG1s8kWzE/s320/V8851.jpg" width="303" /></a><br />
(Inbetween the lovely, thoughtful comments I've inserted photos of Vintage Vogue 8851)<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Hi there! Do you knoω if they maκe anу
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">Ӏ'm kinda paranoid about losing everything
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Any tірs?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Howdy would you mind letting me know which
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">blog loads a lot quicker then most. Can you
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_VdwBl01X2k/UWEf0j0GqzI/AAAAAAAAHoI/wSz1Vih_v-k/s1600/DSCN3611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_VdwBl01X2k/UWEf0j0GqzI/AAAAAAAAHoI/wSz1Vih_v-k/s640/DSCN3611.JPG" width="297" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">What's up to all, it's actually a nice for
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">What's up colleagues, pleasant article and
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">An interesting discussion is worth comment.
I do think that you need to write more on</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">this topic, it may not be a taboo matter but
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6mrdkBHvZ-c/UWEfz31b21I/AAAAAAAAHns/7DOnx3e8JHU/s1600/DSCN3607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6mrdkBHvZ-c/UWEfz31b21I/AAAAAAAAHns/7DOnx3e8JHU/s400/DSCN3607.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XSWHZ2azFrs/UWEf1am8-cI/AAAAAAAAHog/g38cWujEH8s/s1600/DSCN3613.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XSWHZ2azFrs/UWEf1am8-cI/AAAAAAAAHog/g38cWujEH8s/s400/DSCN3613.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">You actually make it appear so easy along
with your presentation but I <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">in finding this matter to be really
something that I feel I would never understand.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;">It sort of feels too complex and very large
for me. I am having a look ahead on your subsequent post, I</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">will attempt to get the hang of it!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Greetings from Ohio! I'm bored at work so I
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KCjU2Vldp04/UWEf0SqMDrI/AAAAAAAAHoM/JZ8VsWWOC84/s1600/DSCN3609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KCjU2Vldp04/UWEf0SqMDrI/AAAAAAAAHoM/JZ8VsWWOC84/s400/DSCN3609.JPG" width="400" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bYdXvonxm-s/UWEf0IOErnI/AAAAAAAAHnw/yLKMKXdZe3U/s1600/DSCN3608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bYdXvonxm-s/UWEf0IOErnI/AAAAAAAAHnw/yLKMKXdZe3U/s640/DSCN3608.JPG" width="608" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">When I originally commented I appear to have
clicked the <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">-Notify me when new comments are added-
checkbox and from <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">now on every time a comment is added I
receive four emails with the same <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">comment. There has to be an easy method you
are able <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">to remove me from that service? Thank you!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fN8SFOa7OoQ/UWEf13cAWHI/AAAAAAAAHo0/PyWFlvULGWQ/s1600/DSCN3616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fN8SFOa7OoQ/UWEf13cAWHI/AAAAAAAAHo0/PyWFlvULGWQ/s640/DSCN3616.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">What's up, all the time i used to check
website posts here early in the morning, because i love to learn more and more.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aMJ9U1eSBVo/UWEf2uMNQ9I/AAAAAAAAHpU/rDqdmaUJW4E/s1600/DSCN3684.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aMJ9U1eSBVo/UWEf2uMNQ9I/AAAAAAAAHpU/rDqdmaUJW4E/s640/DSCN3684.JPG" width="314" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Everyone loѵes whаt you guys are usually <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">up too. This kind of cleveг worκ аnd
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Keep uρ the terrіfic works guys I've added
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-apTOr36RLxg/UWEf3fCH-KI/AAAAAAAAHps/DxEqz8H9-vY/s1600/DSCN3690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-apTOr36RLxg/UWEf3fCH-KI/AAAAAAAAHps/DxEqz8H9-vY/s640/DSCN3690.JPG" width="248" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Great blog! Is your theme custom made or did
you download it <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">from somewhere? A design like yours with a
few simple tweeks would really make my blog shine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Please let me know where you got your theme.
Thanks<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Hi colleagues, its great piece of writing
about <o:p></o:p><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">teachingand fully explained, keep it up all
the time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The other day, while I was at work, my
sister stole my iphone <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">and tested to see if it can survive a thirty
foot drop,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">just so she can be a youtube sensation. My
apple ipad is now broken and she has 83 views.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">I know this is totally off topic but I had
to share it with someone!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">I am really impressed together with your
writing talents and also with the layout on your weblog.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Is this a paid theme or did you modify it
yourself? Anyway stay <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Helvetica; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">up the excellent high quality writing, it's
rare to see a great blog like this one today..</span></div>
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I may have to resort to the DcvrKLgtR 128806 coding system to filter out the spam comments but I've also been thinking about removing comments altogether. I do love to read your opinions and ideas and I find the real comments encouraging and inspiring; it's a wonderful way for us to build relationships. I'm torn between the convenience of easy commenting and the ridiculous amount of drivel I'm receiving at the same time. Any ideas - not anonymous ones - please?<br />
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I did a small spelling mistake but I think I'll leave it up uncorrected</div>
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To annoymous - bugger off!</div>
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com41tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-10683738740234637542013-04-05T09:52:00.000+01:002013-04-05T09:52:17.182+01:00Tick Tock<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yg1rzjZ2v0E/UV6ETxOCK2I/AAAAAAAAHls/YHka-nUk2sA/s1600/p0178kgn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yg1rzjZ2v0E/UV6ETxOCK2I/AAAAAAAAHls/YHka-nUk2sA/s320/p0178kgn.jpg" width="320" /></a>This week on BBC we were all treated to the Great British Sewing Bee (Tuesday 8.00pm) - an elimination contest of sewing your own clothes - not designing like Project Runway - but picking a pattern, fabric, notions and making something within a time limit. Then the public scrutiny of your work either on a mannequin or a real live model. And every week one or two contestants are sent home.<br />
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BBC iplayer link <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p0165nv7/Great_British_Sewing_Bee_Episode_1/" target="_blank">here</a>. I don't know if this works beyond the boundaries of the UK so I've added a Youtube link <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19Fq_X_xngU" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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There's also a great article in the Telegraph <a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/tvandradio/9954479/Stitching-together-The-Great-British-Sewing-Bee.html" target="_blank">here</a>, that tells you a bit more about the contestants and the judges.<br />
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In typical British style the show is not flashy, it's made on a budget but there is something homely and comforting about The Sewing Room and the poor contestants have to have their coffee in the Cafe across the road - like the BBC couldn't provide food and drink! The British contestants have all become friends and there's no bitchiness or slyness, no off-camera comments about each other. Each one is modest about their sewing abilities - refreshing after the narcissism of Project Runway.<br />
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You may recognise one or two of the contestants too:<br />
Tilly, from Tilly and buttons,<br />
Ann Rowley from Stitchers Guild<br />
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First challenge was to make an A-line skirt in 3 and half hours: everyone had the same pattern but they had to choose fabric from an astounding built-in haberdashery wall, cut and sew, included the insertion of the dreaded invisible zip. If there was any time left, they could then 'personalise' their skirt.<br />
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They then had one hour in which to re-fashion the neckline of a white cotton top.<br />
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Finally, the biggy of the week was to make a day dress, perfectly fitted to a real live size 12 person in 7 hours. Each contestant choose their own pattern and fabric and had time to practice at home first, but the model was only available on the day.<br />
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Sitting on my sofa watching the show, I began to think about how long things take to do.<br />
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I've never worked to a deadline in sewing - to me that's the kiss of death. Making something for an upcoming event or occasion puts undue pressure on the completion inevitably leading to mistakes and poor construction. Sewing is about taking your time and doing a bit now and again for the pleasure and fun of it. If the dress is finished in time to wear to the theatre, then that's a bonus, but not a pre-requisite in my sewing world. This may explain my growing disillusionment with SWAP, as the deadline of end of April is fast approaching.<br />
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But, if faced with the challenge of 'doing' something within a time frame, how many of you know how long things take?<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cOhNnbYkYo0/UV6GxvCO_HI/AAAAAAAAHmI/dUoPi6a1beA/s1600/DSCN1788.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cOhNnbYkYo0/UV6GxvCO_HI/AAAAAAAAHmI/dUoPi6a1beA/s1600/DSCN1788.JPG" /></a><br />
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There are some things I do know about my sewing.....</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ahvaLxoUBbk/UV6Gxhwe1fI/AAAAAAAAHmE/3VJPXIm5xNY/s1600/M6078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ahvaLxoUBbk/UV6Gxhwe1fI/AAAAAAAAHmE/3VJPXIm5xNY/s1600/M6078.jpg" /></a>This takes me one hour, from cutting out to wearing.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Asp897N1JQ/UV6G4JE0REI/AAAAAAAAHmU/5BAGCIGVFtM/s1600/DSCN3235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Asp897N1JQ/UV6G4JE0REI/AAAAAAAAHmU/5BAGCIGVFtM/s320/DSCN3235.JPG" width="304" /></a>This takes 100+ hours ( I only know this because I've documented it before)</div>
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Sometimes, it takes me days just to pick a fabric........and then I change my mind about the pattern......</div>
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Just selecting buttons is a Herculean task for me.</div>
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But we all know that one mistake can hold up the whole process by hours - ripping out, picking out all the little thread ends, re-cutting, re-sewing, pressing. Also sewing at home has all sorts of other distractions and rarely do we get 7 straight hours to only sew. One of the judges Patrick Grant is a Saville Row tailor (and lovely to look at BTW) who produces bespoke suits - but only 300 a year! </div>
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Part of sewing for yourself is the pleasure of slip-stitching a hem - not machining it; to change your mind as you go along - add a lining, different buttons, shorten etc; and there is design involved too. Choosing fabric and notions to match a pattern and your body shape are all part of the process. Being forced to work within a time limit obviously restricts all this.<br />
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It's easy to sit at home, watch this show and shout at the TV -<br />
"That zip is way worse than my efforts!",<br />
"Look at the state of that hemline!",<br />
"Awful fabric - it'll never work!"<br />
"Cut the threads off that would you?"<br />
"Why didn't anyone just make a jersey wrap dress?"<br />
"Don't do that - it's too complicated!"<br />
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Watch the show and all these will make sense to you.<br />
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But if you had to....</div>
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How long does it take you to insert a zip?</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sjJRfOY_PS8/UV6OugndH7I/AAAAAAAAHnA/nBCaLCG7qM8/s1600/Document1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="304" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sjJRfOY_PS8/UV6OugndH7I/AAAAAAAAHnA/nBCaLCG7qM8/s640/Document1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Previously bad examples of my zip insertion , without time pressure!</td></tr>
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How long would you need to sew an A-line skirt, hemmed and ready to wear? (and lined!)</div>
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What could you produce in a glorious seven dedicated hours from the sewing room?</div>
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-80588019285099235172013-04-01T19:09:00.000+01:002013-04-01T19:09:03.747+01:00Waist not.....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WGhROEJeLPk/UVk5uEIf9hI/AAAAAAAAHjM/moKWuPTJXho/s1600/DSCN3465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WGhROEJeLPk/UVk5uEIf9hI/AAAAAAAAHjM/moKWuPTJXho/s320/DSCN3465.JPG" width="189" /></a>It almost wasn't made: the fabric is a fine checked wool and I thought, wool - I'll never get my wear out of that at this time of year! Ha! Mother Nature had other things in mind and has insisted on keeping winter around for a lot longer than usual. So I stuck to the original plan and made another pair of trousers for Kate and her SWAP '13. The fabric came from <a href="http://stores.ebay.co.uk/MAGGIES-FAB-FABRICS?_trksid=p2047675.l2563" target="_blank">Maggie's Fab Fabrics </a>and was an end of roll - about 2.2m. When it's gone, it's gone. It has a navy/cream/beige/white check - perfect for my Hepburn colours and navy always looks well in early spring-time.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vbeaMMWh3aU/UVm9lyPtO5I/AAAAAAAAHks/l_HHBVO0Fkc/s1600/DSCN3665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vbeaMMWh3aU/UVm9lyPtO5I/AAAAAAAAHks/l_HHBVO0Fkc/s320/DSCN3665.JPG" width="176" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ugIwgIXBBco/UVk5uKp7uJI/AAAAAAAAHjI/zkQfzp2z9aQ/s1600/DSCN3466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ugIwgIXBBco/UVk5uKp7uJI/AAAAAAAAHjI/zkQfzp2z9aQ/s320/DSCN3466.JPG" width="273" /></a>The trousers are exactly the same as the <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/kates-suit.html" target="_blank">first suit</a> so with no alterations and a TNT pattern, I can sew these blindfolded now. But with the little bit of left over fabric I made a matching waistcoat. It was one of those times when there's too much left to throw out but not really enough to keep. As there was no more fabric where this came from I endeavoured to make good use of the remnant.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x4Fx-3OXw2U/UVk-lCBcOpI/AAAAAAAAHkM/51EcdruCPIY/s1600/M5887.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x4Fx-3OXw2U/UVk-lCBcOpI/AAAAAAAAHkM/51EcdruCPIY/s320/M5887.jpg" width="300" /></a>McCalls M5887 and was purchased as part of their 99c OOP pattern sale around about Christmas 2012 - I certainly have had my money's worth from that little stash.<br />
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All the waistcoats in this pattern are lined and fitted apart from E. I made view A but didn't have enough fabric for the whole waistcoat - so the back is completed in the same lining as the trousers. I also added a self tie at the back partly to co-ordinate with the trousers and the front and partly to create a bit more shape. Sometimes waistcoats can go 'boxy' and I need a waist. View A is also quite short but the high waist on the trousers compensates well and the two meet in the middle. </div>
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This waistcoat with anything lower might look like it's too small.</div>
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The buttons were salvaged from some old RTW - three for the trousers and three for the waistcoat and when they are neatly lined up there's a nice straight line of buttons.<br />
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The main benefits of SWAP is you don't have to change the thread in your machine and the other is the mixing and matching that can be done afterwards.<br />
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There's just something about a waistcoat.........</div>
Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-24504034389805447772013-03-27T10:17:00.001+00:002013-03-27T10:17:45.851+00:00Kate's Suit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BfQ2qVBGnBM/UU9xPhYqaHI/AAAAAAAAHd0/bvSDYSveP9s/s1600/DSCN3458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BfQ2qVBGnBM/UU9xPhYqaHI/AAAAAAAAHd0/bvSDYSveP9s/s320/DSCN3458.JPG" width="246" /></a>I'm going to harp on again about the lack of actual, real life fabric shops where I live..... but for some strange reason we have tonnes and tonnes of curtain fabric shops - I mean hundreds of them! My focus on sewing must be somewhat different from the general population of Northern Ireland who regard what hangs over their windows more important than what they hang on their backs. Anyway, I decided if that was my only choice of fabric shopping then I was going to use it..... the following outfit is made entirely from curtain fabric.</div>
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I've no idea of fabric content, as curtains wouldn't be washed as often as clothes and there is an assumption that they are dry-cleaned, there are rarely any care labels, but it looks like a linen: quite a coarse weave, slight sheen and in an light golden sand, lineny-type of colour. I stood in the shop and scrunched this fabric up as much as possible until a sales assistant came over to ask if she "Could help?". I explained that I was doing a wrinkle test. Her face told me I shouldn't ask for a flame test......</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0NvmBOpW92E/UU9xPkpCRmI/AAAAAAAAHdw/CELLoaefYY8/s1600/DSCN3457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0NvmBOpW92E/UU9xPkpCRmI/AAAAAAAAHdw/CELLoaefYY8/s640/DSCN3457.JPG" width="358" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nmH3pUF5ozg/UU9xQm68gDI/AAAAAAAAHeA/N29DckLJeA8/s1600/DSCN3461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nmH3pUF5ozg/UU9xQm68gDI/AAAAAAAAHeA/N29DckLJeA8/s640/DSCN3461.JPG" width="313" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lk4SRJOIJf4/UVLCqm8BGJI/AAAAAAAAHg4/WxM8-Ox5y6g/s1600/V8751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lk4SRJOIJf4/UVLCqm8BGJI/AAAAAAAAHg4/WxM8-Ox5y6g/s320/V8751.jpg" width="303" /></a></div>
So I bought 2m at £9.99 - not the cheapest garment cloth but is actually, surprisingly, wrinkle resistant, and takes a good crease for a pair of trousers for Kate in SWAP '13.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NWNkxcrDdaw/UVLCqkfuZNI/AAAAAAAAHg8/UL_rnHT16UM/s1600/V8751.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NWNkxcrDdaw/UVLCqkfuZNI/AAAAAAAAHg8/UL_rnHT16UM/s320/V8751.gif" width="317" /></a>The pattern is TNT Vogue 8751. Really, I can't believe this myself - I cut out a 14 and sew it! No messing about, no alterations, no muslin - and they're great trousers too.<br />
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Side pockets, wide legged, high waisted, deep waist-band - I think this might be my fifth pair. I love them. Isn't it great when you find a pattern that just works? As an added insurance against excess wrinkling I also lined this pair to calf length (that's all the lining fabric I had).</div>
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Here's another post I've made about this pattern - <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/all-thats-left-is-hole.html" target="_blank">white linen</a>.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kMbwFpyETWg/UVK8YML6XWI/AAAAAAAAHgU/h5ScWQy4NJc/s1600/DSCN3649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kMbwFpyETWg/UVK8YML6XWI/AAAAAAAAHgU/h5ScWQy4NJc/s320/DSCN3649.JPG" width="243" /></a>But in this case it wasn't just the pattern that worked but the fabric too. It frays quite a lot - a hazard of using furnishing fabrics - but a few zig-zag stitches along the seams soon sorts that out. I was so enamoured with this cloth that I returned to buy more for a matching shirt - guess who was serving that day too?</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8wSh2825pR0/UVLCExcGQnI/AAAAAAAAHgo/8Yacsk9X-HM/s1600/V1246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8wSh2825pR0/UVLCExcGQnI/AAAAAAAAHgo/8Yacsk9X-HM/s200/V1246.jpg" width="188" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8XUG0jnysA/UVLCE3_n54I/AAAAAAAAHgs/jZMoNGOVUfI/s1600/V1246.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8XUG0jnysA/UVLCE3_n54I/AAAAAAAAHgs/jZMoNGOVUfI/s320/V1246.gif" width="306" /></a>I bought another few metres to make Vogue 1246.</div>
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This is a shirt / jacket thing. </div>
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The shirt has interesting details on the sleeve hems; a V held in place with a working button. </div>
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The front can be worn open or closed over, and there is a little bit of interest at the back with a string tie - your choice to wear loose or fitted, even tied in front. The single fastening on the front is secure enough to hold the shirt closed and decent.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Single button closure</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sukBZ3hwhuY/UVK8Xv6D5gI/AAAAAAAAHgQ/Ihiongd_aMM/s1600/DSCN3647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sukBZ3hwhuY/UVK8Xv6D5gI/AAAAAAAAHgQ/Ihiongd_aMM/s320/DSCN3647.JPG" width="320" /></a> The sleeve heads are bias bound with a bit of left over patterned silk which really helps as this is the queen of fraying fabrics. All the inside seams were finished too by pressing over the seam allowance and sewing flat - then, of course, another pressing.</div>
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So here's everything together......<br />
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Just in case you thought spring had sprung and there was heat in the sunshine - we still have snow on the ground!<br />
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So back inside, 'cause it's freezing.......<br />
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I also like the outfit with a <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/whats-better-than.html" target="_blank">white shirt</a> underneath - to break up the single head to toe colour and to add another layer in these freezing temperatures.<br />
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I had my reservations about this shirt - while I love the <a href="http://www.idaretobe.com/catalog.htm?category=57" target="_blank">Laganlook</a> style and I love wearing loose baggy shirts and jumpers, I am gradually realising that I look better (wee bit slimmer) in fitted (not tight) clothes. Opinions please... is this shirt a keeper?<br />
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So Katherine has now three items to wear in SWAP '13 - starting to catch up with Audrey but only one month to complete the rest!!!!<br />
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com49tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-54047169983871002402013-03-21T19:35:00.002+00:002013-03-21T19:35:45.793+00:00What's Better than....?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
A white shirt......</div>
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With statement buttons....</div>
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Made in pristine Oxford cotton from Vogue Very (very) Easy <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8708-products-13655.php?page_id=952" target="_blank">8708 </a>- OOP and only minor modifications.</div>
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<i>And dark blue tailor tacks sewn into the collar!!!!!!!</i></div>
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But is part of SWAP '13 and the first for Kate.</div>
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Long enough to hid the behind but shirt-tailed to look tailored when worn loose.</div>
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Trousers are also sewn for Kate and will be publicised soon when I have another shirt to match completed. </div>
Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-64652833358479102342013-03-17T20:43:00.001+00:002013-03-17T21:08:13.403+00:00For your Erudition - EH<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WFWgdR26TbI/UUWDGM3RozI/AAAAAAAAHZU/ypzEI1NBiQI/s1600/HeadCopenhagen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WFWgdR26TbI/UUWDGM3RozI/AAAAAAAAHZU/ypzEI1NBiQI/s1600/HeadCopenhagen.jpg" /></a><br />
I<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">'m in a quandary - I don't know where to start with this month's designer - do we even label her as a designer? Most certainly prolific, popular, perfectionist and prominent - and so much more besides, but never had her own design house, did not produce clothes for the mass market nor the wealthy, but for a very, very select few.</span><br />
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<!--StartFragment--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">For almost six
decades, starting in the 1920s Edith Head defined the cinematic stylings of Hollywood, and hence influencing each and every one of us, our mothers, grandmothers and beyond. She become chief designer at Paramount within only five years of blagging her way in — the first woman to hold the
position. She worked on more than 1,100 films,
wrote two seminary style books, and became a style
icon in her own right. You gotta love a woman who develops and sticks to her own design ethic regardless of the tumultuous fashion shifts happening around her.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">Her first book The Dress Doctor (1959) </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">was as much a autobiography as an insight into consultations with Hollywood actresses from Clara Bow to Audrey Hepburn. </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">She saw her role as a Hollywood costume designer as a doctor, altering clothes to fit the needs and personality of a <i>"patient"</i>; aiming to (heal) satisfy the stars, who were all <i>"difficult to dress."</i> while at the same time fulfilling the demands of the director and the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">film's</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">period setting. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">There were suggestions in the book for assessing and dressing various body types, for planning to shop by constructing a <i>"grocery list"</i> of a seasonal wardrobe, the importance of appropriate accessories and use of colour.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">These are all standard procedures nowadays, even if we don't always obey them, but Edith was the first to directly address Ms Average and as such became </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">a well-known fashion authority for the American woman in the mid 20th century.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px;">Edith's second, and probably more famous book,<b> How to Dress for Success</b> set out in prescriptive detail what to wear and when; how to dress to get a man and a job; how to accessorise and was chock full of snippets of advice and guidance. The modern day Trinny & Susanna. </span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px;">She married twice herself, her first husband being a young love from university. Her second husband was an architect and a keeper. </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">Through her books, writings and radio, and later, television interviews she became an accepted advisor of fashion culture and style. Aiming for a</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"> shift in American's fashion influences from the Paris couture houses to Hollywood </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">Head critiqued and advised individual women on dress sense and saw it as "<i>my chance to turn America into a country of neat and natty women, women with assurance, women who</i></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">knew </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">they looked</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"> </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"><em>right". </em></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5y9L_0MG8H0/UUYlgAungtI/AAAAAAAAHbc/E8xwXDFiOl0/s1600/Audrey_Hepburn_and_Gregory_Peck_on_Vespa_in_Roman_Holiday_trailer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="151" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5y9L_0MG8H0/UUYlgAungtI/AAAAAAAAHbc/E8xwXDFiOl0/s200/Audrey_Hepburn_and_Gregory_Peck_on_Vespa_in_Roman_Holiday_trailer.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--AAsmC0F2qU/UUWDV5JbjXI/AAAAAAAAHa4/awqdlBHf7-8/s1600/tumblr_llsm9aWUUb1qd9qfro1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Of course, Givenchy designed the clothes for Audrey Hepburn but in the background was Edith ensuring that that they fitted the atheistic of the film and the viewing public. Costume design has to add to but not detract from the movie and it's a fine balance that Edith managed to perfect.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--AAsmC0F2qU/UUWDV5JbjXI/AAAAAAAAHa4/awqdlBHf7-8/s1600/tumblr_llsm9aWUUb1qd9qfro1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--AAsmC0F2qU/UUWDV5JbjXI/AAAAAAAAHa4/awqdlBHf7-8/s320/tumblr_llsm9aWUUb1qd9qfro1_500.jpg" width="281" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7fTyyrESzgI/UUWDUKSlmTI/AAAAAAAAHaE/qE794S1q9Mg/s1600/Rear-Window_Grace-Kelly_green-suit_white-halterneck.bmp-1-600x448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7fTyyrESzgI/UUWDUKSlmTI/AAAAAAAAHaE/qE794S1q9Mg/s320/Rear-Window_Grace-Kelly_green-suit_white-halterneck.bmp-1-600x448.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Who wouldn't want to wear Grace Kelly's green suit in Rear Window? And subsequently believe that they would look like her and have her life? Such is the power of Hollywood.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px;">Edith went on to have 35 Oscar nominations and 8 wins, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">for films including 'All About Eve' (1949), 'Samson and Delilah' (1949), 'Roman Holiday' (1953), 'Sabrina' (1954) and 'The Sting' (1973)</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;">. These remain</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px;"> records for both the Costume Design category and for any woman in any category in the Academy Awards. But she worked tirelessly behind the scenes too: designing for and dressing the stars, the actual ceremony production and artistic direction.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SRv6FWPWaOg/UUYmJ9RsTKI/AAAAAAAAHbk/Ko4jegKEGUY/s1600/tumblr_lvg8opraqd1qzdzbuo1_500-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SRv6FWPWaOg/UUYmJ9RsTKI/AAAAAAAAHbk/Ko4jegKEGUY/s200/tumblr_lvg8opraqd1qzdzbuo1_500-1.jpg" width="125" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DRIIHAn3ZVk/UUWDVRDsZ1I/AAAAAAAAHag/goGv5cTLHck/s1600/am970w_MED.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DRIIHAn3ZVk/UUWDVRDsZ1I/AAAAAAAAHag/goGv5cTLHck/s200/am970w_MED.jpg" width="158" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LNIwFHhcq3Y/UUWDVLwXj2I/AAAAAAAAHak/lO29RwwfipQ/s1600/V1560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LNIwFHhcq3Y/UUWDVLwXj2I/AAAAAAAAHak/lO29RwwfipQ/s200/V1560.jpg" width="155" /></a></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gHMQmx-ImdY/UUWDSsCFkYI/AAAAAAAAHZg/XO1folp4kvI/s1600/4273604246_4297003417_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gHMQmx-ImdY/UUWDSsCFkYI/AAAAAAAAHZg/XO1folp4kvI/s200/4273604246_4297003417_o.jpg" width="128" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></span></span>
</span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LNIwFHhcq3Y/UUWDVLwXj2I/AAAAAAAAHak/lO29RwwfipQ/s1600/V1560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="clear: right; float: right; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></span></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gHMQmx-ImdY/UUWDSsCFkYI/AAAAAAAAHZg/XO1folp4kvI/s1600/4273604246_4297003417_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px;">As if she didn't have enough to do, Edith also, designed patterns for the home sewer, so we too could live the Hollywood dream.</span></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 16px;">She worked right up until 4 days before her death in 1981 when she was designing the costumes for Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Maybe she is a mere copier of the fashions emanating from Paris and didn't produce anything original, she nonetheless allowed millions of women globally to see themselves as Tippi, Audrey and Elizabeth, and many, many others for many years.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">So, I suppose in honour on International Women's Day this week - I nominate Ms Edith Head: designer to the stars and builder of dreams for ordinary women.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I leave you with the best advice I've yet to come across -</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qJ2YLf_rWZU/UUWDUmrR24I/AAAAAAAAHaU/uUr-vMU3ulQ/s1600/Unknown-3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qJ2YLf_rWZU/UUWDUmrR24I/AAAAAAAAHaU/uUr-vMU3ulQ/s320/Unknown-3.jpeg" width="188" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qJ2YLf_rWZU/UUWDUmrR24I/AAAAAAAAHaU/uUr-vMU3ulQ/s1600/Unknown-3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><br /></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 21px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i>Don't let your clothes be fitted too tightly. Even a perfect figure looks better if it doesn't resemble a sausage. Only bathing suits should "fit tight."</i></span></span></span><br />
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Unless, of course, you're designing for superheroes.....</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">On a final and totally unrelated note but significantly related to today's date - </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9VlnbSU7KVw/UUYvrBuuzkI/AAAAAAAAHbs/Mz-OA9nsDh4/s1600/Slide1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9VlnbSU7KVw/UUYvrBuuzkI/AAAAAAAAHbs/Mz-OA9nsDh4/s1600/Slide1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">God bless, or who ever you see as holding your destiny in their palms, I trust they will look favourably upon your life.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The choir sang this this morning and I must admit, hard nut that I am, I had tears in my eyes.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span>Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com28tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-56673586283976878232013-03-10T21:09:00.001+00:002013-03-10T21:11:43.080+00:00Bag o' Linton!<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GyLqY2KIfpA/UTzsWdTe3BI/AAAAAAAAHWM/pv9Wkbrv9uY/s1600/DSCN3591.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GyLqY2KIfpA/UTzsWdTe3BI/AAAAAAAAHWM/pv9Wkbrv9uY/s640/DSCN3591.JPG" width="640" /></a>With my recent order from <a href="http://www.lintondirect.co.uk/shop-online.html" target="_blank">Linton Tweeds</a> I also received a little package of fabric samples. Believe me I was tempted, but so far have resisted. I remembered that I had ordered some samples from them a few years ago and rummaged around the various drawers and cupboards to find the brown envelope that contained the precious tweeds.<br />
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Each sample package contains the very special tweeds and boucles they make for the big design houses along with plain dyed wool crepes to match.<br />
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I laid out all the samples on the sewing table and came to the quite realistic conclusion that this would make a fab patchwork. I started sewing them together.<br />
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I am the first to admit that patchwork is not an interest nor a passion of mine, and added to the fact that each sample was a slightly different size, fabric content and weight, did not allow for an easy project. But heck, when has that ever stopped me?<br />
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Once sewed together I had the dilemma of what to make from the cloth. Cushion covers were an obvious choice but I knew DH would not approve - he's very particular about home decor! But it was too good to not use.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Am2LBGX_uYE/UTz0qko_pII/AAAAAAAAHXE/j0UqcLvjSCY/s1600/6a00d8341c045053ef00e54f6d24268834-800wi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Am2LBGX_uYE/UTz0qko_pII/AAAAAAAAHXE/j0UqcLvjSCY/s320/6a00d8341c045053ef00e54f6d24268834-800wi.jpg" width="226" /></a></div>
I searched the internet for ideas and settled on a handbag. Most of the sites were the traditional quilting methods etc, but not to be put off by quilters' precision and colour matching skills I selected this <a href="http://tinyhappy.typepad.com/tiny_happy/2006/06/shoulder_bag_tu.html" target="_blank">free bag</a> - I love hand drawn patterns.<br />
http://tinyhappy.typepad.com/tiny_happy/2006/06/shoulder_bag_tu.html<br />
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Thanks so much Melissa and though this bag was released in 2006 - it still has a place in today's world.<br />
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Melissa's tutorial has pictures and sketches and finished product - just what you want, when you don't know what you're doing.<br />
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My version is a little different from Melissa's original but pays homage to her pattern. As such I haven't created a photo tutorial of my process but hopefully you will see how it developed.<br />
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I dug out some fine cerise pink wool that has been hanging around for about 20 yrs. It's leftovers and not enough to make a garment from- about 1/2 m but too good to throw away. This project was perfect for using it up.<br />
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This is the bag lining with inside pockets for phone and other stuff.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4rHQ2B1xyg/UTzsWYZhiMI/AAAAAAAAHWI/0SZ6783fecg/s1600/DSCN3594.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4rHQ2B1xyg/UTzsWYZhiMI/AAAAAAAAHWI/0SZ6783fecg/s640/DSCN3594.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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Because the Linton tweed is loosely woven and liable to stretch, I added a wide grosgrain ribbon in the shoulder strap to try and keep the shape and length.<br />
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Eventually, all fell into place.<br />
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I created an outside welt pocket with a old jeans zip as closure to hold keys and the like. I made the welt too big and had to pad it out with more Linton wool crepe. Live and learn.....<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bc31DOth7Fg/UTzsXEczT3I/AAAAAAAAHWc/vbdLZK6Z0Ho/s1600/DSCN3597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bc31DOth7Fg/UTzsXEczT3I/AAAAAAAAHWc/vbdLZK6Z0Ho/s640/DSCN3597.JPG" width="480" /></a><br />
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For security I sewed a 18" bright pink zip to close the bag entirely. I have no idea what a bright pink 18" zip was doing in my notions drawer - obviously the fairies put it there 'cause I didn't.<br />
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Those lovely people at Linton's also sent a keyring with the recent order and I've used this as a ring pull on the zip - Linton fabrics with a Linton badge!<br />
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When I turn the bag around there's a slightly different colour variation.<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gp820ZtgXY4/UTzsYDLSJdI/AAAAAAAAHW0/WD-TdsWaF74/s1600/DSCN3606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gp820ZtgXY4/UTzsYDLSJdI/AAAAAAAAHW0/WD-TdsWaF74/s640/DSCN3606.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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What I like best is the idea that some people in the world are walking around with thousands of pounds (dollars / Euro) worth of clothes made from these fabrics and I've got a freebie patchwork bag made from the same stuff - ain't life fair sometimes?<br />
<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-65985102087139663372013-03-08T19:51:00.000+00:002013-03-08T19:51:40.925+00:00Ms. Coco Moneypenny<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JwCZKN9g7WE/UTo3WqlRpoI/AAAAAAAAHVk/zWL1ZqqIPBQ/s1600/CC_FOLD_SKIRT__78680_zoom2_grande.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JwCZKN9g7WE/UTo3WqlRpoI/AAAAAAAAHVk/zWL1ZqqIPBQ/s400/CC_FOLD_SKIRT__78680_zoom2_grande.jpg" width="320" /></a>Got a bit of sewing mojo back this week and tackled the Centre for Pattern Design's <a href="http://www.centerforpatterndesign.com/collections/patterns/products/cc-fold-skirt" target="_blank">CC inspired fold </a>skirt.<br />
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And I quote:<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #404040; font-family: 'Droid Serif'; font-size: 14px; line-height: 23px;"><i>Once upon a time a former student brought her aunt's unforgettable skirt to class, done by a famous Parisian designer. I had to try it -- and here it is. This skirt is deceptively simple, using a single pattern piece with no visible vertical seams. It closes with two bias sashes that tie in the back, creating a single front fold with a hidden zipper on the right under the fold. The skirt is cut on the straight with a contour facing at the back waist. Sizes 8 - 18. </i></span><br />
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One piece pattern with a single seam! How do they do it? OK, you have to insert a zip and sew up a few darts but heck! One seam, a zip and a hem?<br />
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The fabric is a woven wool with all sorts of colours in there: green, yellow, purple, navy. Although slightly stiff it takes a good pressing to produce an excellent crease.<br />
It looks better close up but from a distance is a rather mucky air force blue.<br />
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The fold looks like a wrap but it's not. The front has a beautiful V shape that draws the eye downwards and away from the waist. The fold also allows for ease of movement without you being concerned about what's showing when you walk.<br />
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While I love the ties, I made this particular skirt for everyday wear and choose to cut the ties short to fit just around my waist and hence, turned them into a waistband with a three button closure.<br />
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The waistband it high, but I like that as it seems to hold more of the wobbly bits in check. As my fabric was rather robust it didn't gather as in the pattern image but another softer fabric would produce that effect.<br />
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The waistband is still unconnected to the skirt and acts like the original ties but with buttons instead.<br />
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An everyday skirt with a touch of unusual. I do feel rather prim and proper wearing it, especially with a white cotton shirt and this just may my ticket to efficiency in the administration section of my job, in which I am currently lacking terribly. I hate paperwork! </div>
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Now there's a idea - wear clothes to make you better in your job! Do any of you have any evidence?</div>
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I had this pattern cut in a previous fabric around Christmas time but realised soon enough that the colour was not for me and put it up for a giveaway as a skirt kit. Super-sewer, Janice from Scotland bagged the kit and made it up with the scant instructions that I provided. Her finished article is a fabulous skirt; sparkly silver tweed with silver satin waist ties. I now wish this colour would look good on me. Regardless - Janice looks fab and made an excellent job. I hope she is as pleased with her results as I am.<br />
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You can see how the satin ties gather and pleat on Janice's version and it looks wonderful with just black.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3qfyDamjCwQ/UTo0yA6-TQI/AAAAAAAAHUs/Yq6QhjTAzXg/s1600/DSCN3578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3qfyDamjCwQ/UTo0yA6-TQI/AAAAAAAAHUs/Yq6QhjTAzXg/s320/DSCN3578.JPG" width="240" /></a>In my humble version I lined the whole thing - surprise surprise - and had to resort to hand sewing to secure the lining along the one and only seam<br />
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Do not be seduced by the one piece, one seam thing thinking this is a quick make - take your time - it is not a straightforward sewing experience. I often mistake lack of pattern pieces with a quick sew. This pattern requires thought, figuring out - especially the waistband and it pays to carefully consider and plan before ploughing headlong to the machine. I had to elongate the seams for better fit and of course the hand sewing added a few extra hours. But it's worth it.<br />
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I'm planning a few more of these for S/S in cottons and lighter weight fabrics.<br />
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Saturday morning is information day for prospective students who want to come to college in September 2013. I planning on wearing this skirt, my glasses propped on my nose and a scowl on my face. Anyone who signs up for my course has passed the first recruitment phase!<br />
(Oh, I might put a blouse on too!)<br />
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com35tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-11799571317787176342013-03-06T21:39:00.001+00:002013-03-06T21:39:21.431+00:00Brown paper parcels....WORK: talked all day: dealt with idiots in suits: the high heels are killing your calves but you won't admit it: the perfect morning make-up has long since worn off: battled with rush-hour traffic: you're tired, fed-up, glad to be home but the dregs of the day cling to your head like cobwebs - and you open the door to see brown paper parcels tied up with string - this is one of my favourite things!<br />
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Kick the shoes off, slip out of the coat, sit down with coffee, scissors and anticipation.<br />
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First up, a swap from <a href="http://prttynpnk.wordpress.com/2013/02/02/swap-drop-and-roll/" target="_blank">Prttynpnk</a>, all the way from the U S of A. I bagged the red cotton in a free swap, meanwhile I sent a blue paisley to <a href="http://crazygypsychronicles.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Juliet in New Zealand</a> as payment.<br />
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This photo does not do justice to the delectable red cotton - it is soft to touch and vibrant in colour. But this was a bonus package containing not just the expected fabric, but a super-duper vintage pattern that might just make SWAP for Katherine, loads of individual shell/wood buttons, note-paper and a greetings card!<br />
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Mmmmm, I even forgot to put a note to Juliet in my package, though I did e-mail instead. But there's something personal in a hand written card, and Anne, I really appreciate the time you took to put this package together - I won't let you down.<br />
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The other package came from <a href="http://www.lintondirect.co.uk/shop-online.html" target="_blank">Linton Tweeds</a>, no less, supplier to Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and the like. I can't get my sewing together at the moment, so when in doubt, go internet shopping.<br />
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And you just know I'll look like this when it's done!!!!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XWXertOEoXQ/UTe1buBMvhI/AAAAAAAAHSU/XmfKwHxm58c/s1600/Lucie+de+la+Falaise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XWXertOEoXQ/UTe1buBMvhI/AAAAAAAAHSU/XmfKwHxm58c/s400/Lucie+de+la+Falaise.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lucie de la Falaise<br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Now call me foolish, call me a glutton, I may even be accused of avarice, but sloth, I am not. Two absolutely delicious metres of cream & white boucle for a summer version of a Chanel jacket. And what's even better Anne's timely buttons might just find a home on it. All I need is lining and 100 hours of sewing time!</span></td></tr>
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I'm suffering from 'in between-season-itis" at the moment; too cold for spring wear and too late for winter, I expect all you who live in the northern hemisphere are experiencing the same illness. At the weekend to fill the void I thought I'd try my hand at lingerie - again!<br />
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The first time last summer wasn't so successful and all of Saturday morning's efforts merited a dump in the bin. I had downloaded a PDF from Melissa of FehrTrade about a month ago, primarily because is was free but with the remote idea that I might actually make the <a href="http://www.fehrtrade.com/article/676/free-lacey-thong-panty-pattern" target="_blank">Lacy Thong</a>. Yep, you heard that right, a Lacy Thong!<br />
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Well things were going so badly in the sewing room with the bra and the panties that I thought I may as well give the thong a go - I mean I hadn't actually produced anything worthwhile so there was nothing to lose. I shall now give you a little bit of advice - download this pattern now!<br />
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If you make lingerie, even if you don't, make this.<br />
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Two lacy thongs and a pair of granny knickers behind.</div>
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Easy, straightforward and nothing complicated. You need stretch lace, a bit of knicker elastic, something stretchy for the middle bits, an old T-shirt for gusset lining, and half an hour of your time. Perfect.<br />
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Do not be put off by the 'thong' description, these are substantial thongs - no string riding up you know where - comfortable and secure, and I can guarantee they do not do the disappearing act as the day wears on.<br />
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With such a success in the knicker area my confidence returned and I managed to make a matching bra and have now moved on to dig out all stretch fabric scraps to make more thongs. Kudos to Melissa who gave me back my sewing mojo and the will to try and try again.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DNFvNFOEb-k/UTe169OAu9I/AAAAAAAAHSc/hOCk40KF4QM/s1600/Slide1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DNFvNFOEb-k/UTe169OAu9I/AAAAAAAAHSc/hOCk40KF4QM/s640/Slide1.jpg" width="640" /></a>I must get back to SWAP 13, Audrey is well and truly shod but poor Katherine languishes naked in the sidelines.<br />
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-60933851861057237992013-03-02T10:01:00.000+00:002013-03-02T10:01:24.531+00:00It's a Man's Shirt WorldI need shirts, especially white ones. I checked the contents of the wardrobe recently and my old white shirts are distinctly grey. While I should be putting my head down and working on SWAP 13, there are more immediate dressing needs. Anyway, I included a few white shirts in the SWAP collection so I can kill two birds with one stone. One's already completed in <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/mosch-me-and-aud.html" target="_blank">broiderie anglaise for Audrey</a>, the next one will be for Katherine.<br />
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In my Annie Hall moments I love to wear DH's shirts - loose, baggy, gorgeously soft cotton and why can't I have shirts like his?<br />
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So, talking of white shirts I made a striped one.....yeah yeah I know, and I'm supposed to be sewing with a plan - LOL<br />
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The pattern is the same as the broiderie anglaise version except this time I sort of stuck to the original design and didn't add any shaping darts or alteration to the sleeves. I did however add a flowery quilting cotton at the cuffs, collar stand and inside centre front for interest and colour, and I think, to feminise the shirt a bit.<br />
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This is a straightforward shirt: it has two piece sleeves that makes for an easy placket-free vent at the cuff. The centre fronts are folded back on themselves so need for interfacing, however, in this case I cut my button fronts separately, cutting one on the bias for the stripes and the underneath one in the quilting cotton. Then just sewed these to the fronts and made up as per the original pattern instructions.<br />
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I did tinker about with the cuffs - the pattern has straight forward single cuffs with one button - I doubled the length of the cuffs and made them into fold back ones secured with button cufflinks. On one side is the stripy shirt fabric and on the other the quilting cotton. The button cufflinks would work just as well with single cuffs too.<br />
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Here's how to make button cufflinks to add that little bit of personality to your shirts.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vEgLtVPlNBs/UTHJOTXKmLI/AAAAAAAAHRU/g7m-RFvA-8I/s1600/DSCN3563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vEgLtVPlNBs/UTHJOTXKmLI/AAAAAAAAHRU/g7m-RFvA-8I/s640/DSCN3563.JPG" width="376" /></a>I raised the shoulder/arm hole too as the shirt was looking a bit too much like one of Dh's. This makes it just a bit more fitted and looks like it belongs to me rather than if I'd borrowed it. although I am buttoning to the right - that's men's isn't it?<br />
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I think this might just be the first shirt I've ever worn that doesn't need a safety pin at the bust - know what I mean?<br />
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So, it's not white and not part of SWAP 13 but to quote <a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,19841.0.html" target="_blank">Syndi</a> from Stitchers' Guild - "There's no sewing police!"<br />
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-87179380631304327422013-02-26T21:34:00.000+00:002013-03-03T09:18:16.496+00:00Mosch, Me and Aud<br />
Having reviewed a lot of photos of Moschino trousers I am strongly of the opinion that they are designed to fit badly in and around the crotch area.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-icfakCweVu4/USyB5v6KdZI/AAAAAAAAHKA/ClsPhFcPdl0/s1600/Slide1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-icfakCweVu4/USyB5v6KdZI/AAAAAAAAHKA/ClsPhFcPdl0/s640/Slide1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-60EnLH0KuiI/USyDP9I7VZI/AAAAAAAAHKQ/CVVBl9lIr5o/s1600/DSCN3535.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-60EnLH0KuiI/USyDP9I7VZI/AAAAAAAAHKQ/CVVBl9lIr5o/s320/DSCN3535.JPG" width="307" /></a>So I didn't feel too bad when I made my alterations to the £310's worth of <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/cheap-chic.html" target="_blank">recently purchased Moschino</a> pants.<br />
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The waist was too big by about 1 1/2", and the bum was saggy along with wrinkles around the crotch. I promptly took ripper and scissors to the trousers in an attempt to get a better fit.<br />
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<a href="http://fitforaqueen.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Mrs Mole</a> would be proud of me. The back seam was ripped out to crotch and the waistband cut in two. I re-sewed the centre back seam taking in almost 1" on either side, cut this off the waistband and made a centre back seam. Stitched the belt carrier over this seam, re-stitched the waistband down, sewed the label back on and Bob's your uncle - a pair of relatively well fitting Moschino pants.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rRLyu6cdeQU/USyDQzMAL3I/AAAAAAAAHKg/QItcSWmDd6c/s1600/DSCN3546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rRLyu6cdeQU/USyDQzMAL3I/AAAAAAAAHKg/QItcSWmDd6c/s400/DSCN3546.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nwnap1upuGU/USyFBvd3dsI/AAAAAAAAHMA/ciTy_c5RRfA/s1600/DSCN3554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nwnap1upuGU/USyFBvd3dsI/AAAAAAAAHMA/ciTy_c5RRfA/s400/DSCN3554.JPG" width="140" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZTTftzi-V1A/USyEltwuCgI/AAAAAAAAHLk/hDuBEsZV8jw/s1600/DSCN3558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZTTftzi-V1A/USyEltwuCgI/AAAAAAAAHLk/hDuBEsZV8jw/s400/DSCN3558.JPG" width="212" /></a>I managed to keep a few wrinkles (in keeping with the Moschino fit) but overall, a much better pair of trousers with no gaping at the waist. There are a few extra wrinkles that, to be honest, if I was making these myself from scratch, I would not be happy with. Another reminder of why we make and don't buy.<br />
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The shirt is my take on Audrey Hepburn's from Roman Holiday for SWAP 13. I had to ditch the <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/just-chanel.html" target="_blank">Chanel jacket </a>from the collection as it is a jacket and not allowed as a top and I had to find a replacement. I need white shirts/blouses, so this seemed a good option.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ho9cCdkjpHA/USyFA3XevFI/AAAAAAAAHLs/d0noUzGfaP4/s1600/Audrey_Hepburn_and_Gregory_Peck_on_Vespa_in_Roman_Holiday_trailer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ho9cCdkjpHA/USyFA3XevFI/AAAAAAAAHLs/d0noUzGfaP4/s320/Audrey_Hepburn_and_Gregory_Peck_on_Vespa_in_Roman_Holiday_trailer.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ix2eq9Vp5Q/USyFDfI9RfI/AAAAAAAAHMY/wIA2nENCcDw/s1600/M6086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ix2eq9Vp5Q/USyFDfI9RfI/AAAAAAAAHMY/wIA2nENCcDw/s200/M6086.jpg" width="189" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-07dmlKiGH1s/USyFDCFJajI/AAAAAAAAHMc/MRjVMNqkNQE/s1600/M6086.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-07dmlKiGH1s/USyFDCFJajI/AAAAAAAAHMc/MRjVMNqkNQE/s320/M6086.gif" width="320" /></a> I started with McCalls 6068 (OOP) but as you can see is it unfitted. It's a great little basic shirt pattern with easy collar, cuffs and the two-piece sleeves make for an easy vent too.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-haDZ5HaZdbA/USyFDDX2s3I/AAAAAAAAHMg/xcMFXvPa9ik/s1600/DSCN3559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-haDZ5HaZdbA/USyFDDX2s3I/AAAAAAAAHMg/xcMFXvPa9ik/s640/DSCN3559.JPG" width="256" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xGSaxgu9U1k/USyFA8Bzo_I/AAAAAAAAHLw/qdiVGbaxG04/s1600/DSCN3550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xGSaxgu9U1k/USyFA8Bzo_I/AAAAAAAAHLw/qdiVGbaxG04/s640/DSCN3550.JPG" width="249" /></a>With the shirt pieces pinned onto Doris I set about adding darts - two in the back, one in each front and bust darts for shaping. I removed the cuffs and shortened the sleeves to elbow length. The fabric is a white cotton broiderie anglaise that I rediscovered in the attic recently. I bought this in London almost 25 years ago!<br />
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With the little bits of leftovers I made a little necktie - mostly to cover up my poor sewing at the collar.<br />
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It wasn't all plain sailing however. It was difficult to tell right side from wrong side with the fabric and I ended up making two left sleeves. Nice little reminder to not be so cocky.<br />
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The shirt is long enough to cover the backside when worn loose or tie at the waist for a 1950s look and still be fitted enough to tuck in without acres of shirt tails bunching up inside the trousers.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YWont3v2nCo/US0nNXoc-6I/AAAAAAAAHPA/S_E66QLQQ4o/s1600/Audrey-Hepburn-classic-movies-11456972-2098-1700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YWont3v2nCo/US0nNXoc-6I/AAAAAAAAHPA/S_E66QLQQ4o/s400/Audrey-Hepburn-classic-movies-11456972-2098-1700.jpg" width="180" /></a><br />
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Me and Audrey are becoming really good mates - here's us playing cards and shooting the breeze in our pristine white shirts.</div>
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-34557067587676169642013-02-23T23:08:00.002+00:002013-02-23T23:08:55.401+00:00Cheap & ChicToday I went to the hairdresser's and then I went to the shops...... and I bought........some clothes!!!!!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cFQxxjoJP5k/USlHUsbkZ_I/AAAAAAAAHIk/OQg0eJ6aAPY/s1600/moschino-cheapandchic-black-dress-pants-product-1-382736-027487774_large_flex.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cFQxxjoJP5k/USlHUsbkZ_I/AAAAAAAAHIk/OQg0eJ6aAPY/s400/moschino-cheapandchic-black-dress-pants-product-1-382736-027487774_large_flex.jpeg" width="156" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ALbuK2QdUwY/USlHUisvTjI/AAAAAAAAHIg/TjdCkeYaTjU/s1600/images.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ALbuK2QdUwY/USlHUisvTjI/AAAAAAAAHIg/TjdCkeYaTjU/s1600/images.jpeg" /></a>One of the things was a pair of Moschino trousers: small black and white houndstooth wool with slight stretch. Ankle length, side pockets and wrinkly crotch all for the grand price of £310, very similar in style to those on the right. This is NOT cheap in my book and the saggy bum is definitely NOT chic.<br />
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It's been so long since I've bought RTW that I'm not even sure what size I am anymore. These were too big around the waist.<br />
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So I came home and did this....<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y2GhQ1wvfYc/USlINdAwHyI/AAAAAAAAHI0/PeTGGdy56ko/s1600/DSCN3535.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y2GhQ1wvfYc/USlINdAwHyI/AAAAAAAAHI0/PeTGGdy56ko/s640/DSCN3535.JPG" width="614" /></a> Scissors, pins and ripper and an interesting look at the insides of RTW. No back seam in the waistband meant no easy take-in, so I had to cut the band in two. Pinned out about 1 1/2" along the centre back seam easing out all the way to the crotch where the inside legs meet.<br />
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Oh, just in case you thought I'd abandoned sewing for real and gone over to the dark side, I picked these trousers up at 80% off and when I came home I finished this to wear on top.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bycqI-f4n54/USlJ00HvFfI/AAAAAAAAHJA/0SAF35suOhE/s1600/DSCN3539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bycqI-f4n54/USlJ00HvFfI/AAAAAAAAHJA/0SAF35suOhE/s640/DSCN3539.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Details to follow shortly.....<br />
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-68050556270622877142013-02-17T09:55:00.000+00:002013-02-17T09:55:49.752+00:00Coco's Garden and Other StoriesI'm beginning to think that life is just a series of coincidences - one event/decision/action leads to an apparently unrelated event/decision/action, which leads to another and so on, until all those little things add up to one big thing. Here's how my recent series is connected:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yueCtgE8UoI/UR3905ExnkI/AAAAAAAAG_U/gh9zeQmV0YM/s1600/2-IMG_0111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yueCtgE8UoI/UR3905ExnkI/AAAAAAAAG_U/gh9zeQmV0YM/s200/2-IMG_0111.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NIh5Mk-LAWg/UR394eUkerI/AAAAAAAAHAE/2egL9nkDzjg/s1600/New+Look+6936+Maxi+(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NIh5Mk-LAWg/UR394eUkerI/AAAAAAAAHAE/2egL9nkDzjg/s200/New+Look+6936+Maxi+(4).JPG" width="142" /></a>For nearly a year I have been reading <a href="http://cocosloft.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Coco's Loft</a>. A fabulous and talented lady who makes the most outstanding clothes and has really defined her style. Many of her photo shoots are in her garden. My fingers are definitely NOT green, I can kill weeds, but Coco's garden is tropical, lush and very, very green. Every time I see it I tend to look at the plants and not the dress (sorry Coco).<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sZCbDO0D-Rg/UR4dCXvgw_I/AAAAAAAAHEU/_ApIQhhWVws/s1600/IMG_4135-489x1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sZCbDO0D-Rg/UR4dCXvgw_I/AAAAAAAAHEU/_ApIQhhWVws/s200/IMG_4135-489x1024.jpg" width="95" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_AOoGo47qUw/UR4dBgBP_KI/AAAAAAAAHEI/jajTUULp3j4/s1600/IMG_4094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_AOoGo47qUw/UR4dBgBP_KI/AAAAAAAAHEI/jajTUULp3j4/s200/IMG_4094.jpg" width="128" /></a>Then Elizabeth, from <a href="http://www.sewnblog.com/" target="_blank">Sewn</a>, was fixated for a while on a Burda batwing top and made some beautiful versions, each a little different from the last. I actually have this pattern too, being one of the few that I managed to trace off and know her addiction well. I also made 3 or 4. It's an easy pattern, front and back cut on the fold with a bit of bias or other finishing technique around the neck, sleeves and hem. Recently she also posted about <a href="http://www.sewnblog.com/cutting-vs-sewing/" target="_blank">hating to cut out</a>, have I got a treat for her!<br />
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Next, I set a <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/silly.html" target="_blank">puzzle pattern piece </a>for you to guess what it would morph into. I inadvertently posted a photo of the pattern and <a href="http://www.centerforpatterndesign.com/collections/patterns" target="_blank">The Centre for Pattern Design</a> told me off, in case some unscrupulous sewer copied the design from my blog. I promptly removed the image and for my efforts, CPD very, very kindly gifted another pattern. I also suspect that they received considerably more orders for patterns that week.<br />
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I've also been reading around the blog-o-sphere of <a href="http://tenthousandsewinghours.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/the-fearless-february-sew-alongpart-i.html" target="_blank">Fearless February</a>. A personal challenge to settle down and tackle those sewing related things that you '<i>need a bit more practice</i>' at. While not officially signing up, the challenge did spark something in me. So things I'm really crap at - sewing in a straight line; applying bias binding without wrinkles; sewing an even distance from the edge; good top stitching, and stitch-in-the-ditch. Ironically, I used most of these techniques in the recently completed <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/rainy-day-bridge.html" target="_blank">raincoat</a> but I've seen it up close and believe me, there's lots of room for improvement.<br />
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Bear with me, we're getting there.........that's four stories so far.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zu4pc79AFkE/UR393GTRr0I/AAAAAAAAG_4/hYmXcKTzj7w/s1600/DSCN3417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zu4pc79AFkE/UR393GTRr0I/AAAAAAAAG_4/hYmXcKTzj7w/s320/DSCN3417.JPG" width="320" /></a>While in town the other day, the one and only fabric shop had a table set up with a selection of cottons at half price. Most were end of rolls but generally 1 -2m in length. All sorts of colours and patterns but I was drawn to a grey/green leaf design.<br />
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My immediate thought was - <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Coco's garden!</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-duFWiS2dR44/UR4fGrtSmkI/AAAAAAAAHFE/sX4SMgp3DmQ/s1600/IMG_1512__28533_zoom2_grande.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-duFWiS2dR44/UR4fGrtSmkI/AAAAAAAAHFE/sX4SMgp3DmQ/s320/IMG_1512__28533_zoom2_grande.jpg" width="145" /></a><br />
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Then the pattern arrived in the post (air mail no less), <a href="http://www.centerforpatterndesign.com/collections/patterns/products/mv-bias-pullover" target="_blank">MV bias cut top</a>. Wait for it.....one piece!<br />
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My immediate thought was - <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Elizabeth would love this</span>: batwing style and easy to cut out!<br />
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And so, we are now at the point of culmination of all these coincidences to proudly present the Centre for Pattern Design's Madeleine Vinonnet's inspired bias cut top-<br />
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And so we come to then end (so far) of this series of fortunate events...or do you have any to add?<br />
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I've practiced my top stitching and stitching in the ditches, attaching bias binding in lots of different ways, and discovered a top that has one pattern piece that is cut on the bias with only 2 seams (count them, two!), drapes beautifully to the body without being clingy and can be made in almost any fabric.<br />
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The pattern comes in small, medium and large but without SAs. I started with the L but have added 1cm on every subsequent cut. The fit on Number 2 and 3 is much better than the Number 1 satin. Just check the width of the bottom of the sleeves - too tight and you'll end up with a T-shirt like me! You'll need about 1.5m of fabric and the wider the better, especially of you want longer sleeves. The excess fabric at the end can be used very productively for making the bias binding.<br />
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Most batwing tops are difficult to wear under a cardigan or jacket without the sleeves all bunching up but this top has narrower sleeves and easily fits comfortably underneath a cardi.<br />
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Do you have any strange coincidence stories, or a train of events that led you to where you are now?Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-22257643671213710382013-02-14T19:30:00.000+00:002013-02-15T08:54:49.062+00:00Rainy Day Bridge<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
SWAP 13 , the bridging garment - a reversible raincoat.</div>
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This is what finishing an inside seam on a two piece sleeve looks like. </div>
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I started to mess about with a fancy stitch along the edges of the reversible coat as a finishing technique and it looked pretty good, but after all that forcing through the machine for a clean seam finish the raw edge started to fray a little and it became messy and untidy.</div>
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I was lucky enough to have a 3" strip of the black jersey along one selvedge of the fabric without the twill attached, so I cut this off and being jersey it was malleable enough to stretch around curves and points. No need to bias it. This also does not fray but my straight stitching and stitch-in-the-ditch techniques are abysmal so I choose a feather stitch on the machine that was wide enough to catch all the edges in one pass.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sgr4fMyyCFw/URttBJHZT1I/AAAAAAAAG8M/HSE6YEO9O-4/s1600/DSCN3437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sgr4fMyyCFw/URttBJHZT1I/AAAAAAAAG8M/HSE6YEO9O-4/s640/DSCN3437.JPG" width="640" /></a>Not perfect, but adequate and does finish the coat to a higher standard. Thanks to all of you who suggested the bias strip - it worked! The trim goes all the way around the entire coat; lapels, sleeves and hem. I think I just about made it and fretted that I would run out of the black jersey to complete the job. The gods were smiling on me that day and I had a measly 7" left over.</div>
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As for the collar - I attached it as usual on one side - making the assumption that this is the 'right' side. </div>
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On the other side, I slipstitched the seam allowance under to hide the raw edges. Let's hope it holds. the collar is the only bit of this coat that has two layers. I didn't add interfacing as it sits well enough on its own. The twill is fairly stiff and required the use of a jeans needle in the machine to get through it.<br />
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All the seams are flat felled and nearly even!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LtfTWSF0syw/URoGutjbiZI/AAAAAAAAG1k/YXKgWwbg7GU/s1600/DSCN3351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LtfTWSF0syw/URoGutjbiZI/AAAAAAAAG1k/YXKgWwbg7GU/s400/DSCN3351.JPG" width="231" /></a>Although I added an extra 20" to the pattern to get a full length coat, it was actually too long. I was aiming for about knee length. So I had to whack off another 4-5".<br />
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With the cut off hem I made a black belt for the days when I wear the coat inside out.</div>
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I also added a single button closure at the front for the times when I want the coat closed but not belted. My machine was not in good form for making buttonholes and the whole area was frayed and smashed beyond repair. I added a patch to cover the mess and I suppose it's better this way as it reinforces the buttonhole. From the button box came two different buttons to match either side. They are sewn back to back so some days I'll button to the left and other days I'll button to the right. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n7kfq08a9KA/UR05Cf9qoaI/AAAAAAAAG-A/d13hxPbBUQo/s1600/DSCN3433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n7kfq08a9KA/UR05Cf9qoaI/AAAAAAAAG-A/d13hxPbBUQo/s400/DSCN3433.JPG" width="166" /></a></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IL80CkMz4dw/UR05CdGtjfI/AAAAAAAAG98/OM4uSIS_1Ek/s1600/DSCN3428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IL80CkMz4dw/UR05CdGtjfI/AAAAAAAAG98/OM4uSIS_1Ek/s400/DSCN3428.JPG" width="160" /></a>And just in case you thought I am wonder woman to get all this sewing done I'd like to point out that I'm off work on half-term and though I should be marking and prepping, I didn't think a little dedicated sewing time would hurt anyone. Now however, I'll be sitting up 'til 2am on Sunday morning to get ready for Monday!<br />
<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com42tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-49768638052661790212013-02-12T23:22:00.002+00:002013-02-12T23:22:33.490+00:00For your Erudition - HG<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8pFwhX_3PaY/URoHwoJdGII/AAAAAAAAG2g/gan9xinbVe8/s1600/Bettina+Blouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8pFwhX_3PaY/URoHwoJdGII/AAAAAAAAG2g/gan9xinbVe8/s320/Bettina+Blouse.jpg" width="276" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bettina Blouse</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #343434; font-family: Times;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #660000; font-family: Times;">HUBERT GIVENCHY</span></h3>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #00264e; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Time to get serious again..... </span>continuing series on the history, legacy and benefits of past designers. Hopefully you'll learn something, or at least appreciate today's fashion. Because, folks, not surprisingly, nothing's new!</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #00264e; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span lang="EN-US">Born in 1927 to an aristocratic French family</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 21.0pt;"> </span></span>Hubert James Taffin de Givenchy<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 21.0pt;"> was raised predominantly by his mother and maternal grandmother from whom he
inherited his passion for fabrics. He headed to Paris at the age of 17 and </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">enrolled at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts. Apprenticed to Jacques Fath in 1945, he then worked under the legendary Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Givenchy made an immediate impression - statuesque and handsome (he was 6' 6") and his designs epitomised glamour and femininity. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8TEJuz2_f5X652h2SlHj0ADl2tbiof4hSZWKOnV8NKKOkCukCNsaa_zNK_7Jifq6zk5oRoC2-mtt6HDE3gE1wDBv4BsDPeZZgfTmc6hBG-WYmN3uHs8xYfIcrrD5htHSqe68YzSBvZvCw/s1600/Princess-wedding-gown-sketch-design-amazing-silhouette-BW1677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 21.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span>In
1952, he established his couture house, la Maison Givenchy, launching his debut collection of separates; <span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 21.0pt;">light floor-length skirts and stunning blouses, including the celebrated Bettina Blouse, named after model of the day Bettina
Graziani. </span><span lang="EN-US">The Bettina Blouse was actually made from a cheap cloth that was normally used to produce the toile for the more luxurious fabrics. A <o:p>collection of separates was novel in the era of couture dresses and ball gowns. </o:p></span>The idea that a woman could mix and match and stamp her own personal style upon Givenchy's clothes, rather than wear solely as the designer intended, released a new philosophy in the rarified world of the haute couturier and its customers. <span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 21.0pt;">Two years later he broke the mould again and became the first couturier to
present a luxury ready-to-wear line.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US">Interestingly, he inherited his design aesthetic of simplicity from his friend and mentor, Cristóbal Balenciaga (see <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/for-your-erudition.html" target="_blank">For your Erudition - CB)</a>. The two were designing at the same time in Paris and no doubt inspired each other. <o:p></o:p></span><span lang="EN-US">During this era of collaboration and friendship Givenchy introduced (simultaneously with Balenciaga) the sack dress, acclaimed as “a genuinely new fashion sha</span><span lang="EN-US">pe.”</span><span lang="EN-US"> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US"> Givenchy</span><span lang="EN-US"> is </span><span lang="EN-US">credited with pioneering the princess silhouette: in simple terms, a fitted bodice, small tight waist with a full flared skirt. Extremely feminine and glamourous. While this style of dress had been around for many years before, Givenchy transformed it from the evening only ball gown to the everyday dress.</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M_iIGv1Lp1s/URoHvblsF1I/AAAAAAAAG2E/T_JbmwTnuCs/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RHxs59QzJcA/URoHvUPGdBI/AAAAAAAAG2Y/oZpumwg1ssM/s1600/2009CD4259_jpg_ds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FUGiKiYjVu8/URoHvV8ICCI/AAAAAAAAG2M/M2T9NLuTfo0/s1600/632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lhPlKVU12t4/URoHwHp1p3I/AAAAAAAAG2U/IK7hAKWf8EU/s1600/Audrey+Hepburn+-+little+black+dress+by+Givenchy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EUNb7Qrmb6s/URq2iXxzr3I/AAAAAAAAG4g/XGHZ1JbvxRA/s1600/Unknown-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C-BS18fA_vA/URq2jHU6wVI/AAAAAAAAG40/zQ4WT-vVLfs/s1600/images.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"></span></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HyH7do-8zuk/URq2jS6mfAI/AAAAAAAAG44/anTvty0CSUA/s1600/vintage_givenchy.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lhPlKVU12t4/URoHwHp1p3I/AAAAAAAAG2U/IK7hAKWf8EU/s1600/Audrey+Hepburn+-+little+black+dress+by+Givenchy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lhPlKVU12t4/URoHwHp1p3I/AAAAAAAAG2U/IK7hAKWf8EU/s320/Audrey+Hepburn+-+little+black+dress+by+Givenchy.JPG" width="234" /></a>You cannot acknowledge Givenchy's contribution to fashion legacy without mentioning at least his long term relationship with Audrey Hepburn. The two practically go hand-in-hand, both through an evolution of her personal style and a development and popularity of his designs. I can't help wondering where either of them would have ended up if it hadn't been for this close collaboration. A symbiotic relationship that benefited both, I believe. <i>In the words of Hepburn, Givenchy to her was more than a couturier, and indeed she to him far more than a muse. Theirs was a relationship not only of professional advantages, as they propelled one another into the royalty of their respective worlds, but one of deep and long-lasting affection, that would continue for more than forty years.</i></div>
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Givenchy designed Audrey Hepburn's personal ensembles, as well as those made famous by her in the films Funny Face, Sabrina, and of course that little black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's.</div>
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Interestingly, Givenchy was told to expect Ms Hepburn at his studio in Paris for a costume consultation for an up and coming film, Sabrina (1954). Mons. Givenchy, not completely au fait with Hollywood celebrity and current affairs, anticipated Ms Katherine Hepburn to appear and had already started to draft designs based on her figure and style. But who should turn up at the door? But Audrey!</div>
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This little story of coincidences and serendipity makes me feel all warm inside as the theme of my <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/back-to-basics.html" target="_blank">SWAP 2013</a> is the Hepburn - based upon both ladies' styles and I've only just learned this story because of the research and reading done for this post.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EUNb7Qrmb6s/URq2iXxzr3I/AAAAAAAAG4g/XGHZ1JbvxRA/s1600/Unknown-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EUNb7Qrmb6s/URq2iXxzr3I/AAAAAAAAG4g/XGHZ1JbvxRA/s200/Unknown-1.jpeg" width="171" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-31PSVtdVU8Y/URq2i-TmBaI/AAAAAAAAG4w/1LkgUxBWxHw/s1600/images-2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-31PSVtdVU8Y/URq2i-TmBaI/AAAAAAAAG4w/1LkgUxBWxHw/s200/images-2.jpeg" width="146" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P7C9DQweiTA/URq2i5wyeHI/AAAAAAAAG4s/bdieRZrRZfE/s1600/images-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P7C9DQweiTA/URq2i5wyeHI/AAAAAAAAG4s/bdieRZrRZfE/s200/images-1.jpeg" width="168" /></a></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C-BS18fA_vA/URq2jHU6wVI/AAAAAAAAG40/zQ4WT-vVLfs/s1600/images.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C-BS18fA_vA/URq2jHU6wVI/AAAAAAAAG40/zQ4WT-vVLfs/s1600/images.jpeg" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Although we admire Audrey's gamine figure today, back in 1950 it was the opposite of Hollywood glamour. Think Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Russell at al. - all hourglass, cleavage, hips - curves and sex appeal from head to toe. Then along comes the boyish stick figure of Audrey. Personally, I see that Givenchy gave her the curvaceous, feminine figure desired at the time as defined by his clothes and cut: waistlines, gathers and drapes over the hips to widen and round, high necklines to disguise lack of cleavage but still creating the all important sex appeal. For this reason - fullness over the hips - he has never been on my list of favourite European designers I being one of those (un)fortunate beings who do not need anymore fabric that absolutely necessary in that area. But I do admire his style and skill in being able to create an hourglass figure where none exist with just the cut of a skirt or a dress.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1966</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">By the 1970 and 80s Givenchy appeared to be losing, not only his muse in Audrey (she died in the early 1990s) but the inspirational designs that preceded. She was spending more and more time on humanitarian work and he was severely criticised for his lack of creativity and originality in one collection as it was <span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 24px;"> considered to be <i>tediously ladylike</i>.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">This may have contributed to him selling the business to Louis Vuitton Moët
Hennessey in 1988, and ultimately to retiring in 1995. Still alive in his 80s and enjoying his retirement, Givenchy has very little to do with the fashion world today but his legacy lives on. He created a style that requires no embellishment - ever see embroidery or jewels on an original Givenchy? The clothes create the mystery of the figure beneath and they are the only decoration a girl needs. He selected and used the best and the most innovative of fabrics for his collections and let them speak for themselves. Givenchy's name and legacy have been synonymous with Parisian chic for more than 50 years and will continue for probably another 50. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Looking back over his designs and creations we can, yet again, see the inspiration for many of today's trends and styles - but as we read and learn - nothing in this world is new!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A8Zg4WEQatU/URrIyZB0ZlI/AAAAAAAAG6M/3GwjDr16tv0/s1600/1981.249.11ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A8Zg4WEQatU/URrIyZB0ZlI/AAAAAAAAG6M/3GwjDr16tv0/s320/1981.249.11ab_F.jpg" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1969 - Feathers cocktail dress</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HQmvrXvqQn0/URrIyRGriCI/AAAAAAAAG6Q/I5p-gqfZn3o/s1600/1977.407.5_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HQmvrXvqQn0/URrIyRGriCI/AAAAAAAAG6Q/I5p-gqfZn3o/s320/1977.407.5_F.jpg" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1971 - cotton, plastic, glass and silk</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mnIWZ7Lw2yI/URrIya9hhpI/AAAAAAAAG6I/2HsKG-HAWAs/s1600/1978.357.8a%25E2%2580%2593c_F.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mnIWZ7Lw2yI/URrIya9hhpI/AAAAAAAAG6I/2HsKG-HAWAs/s320/1978.357.8a%25E2%2580%2593c_F.jpg" width="100" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1975 - silk jersey - delicious</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RNHEhfLV6_w/URrIyzWpFXI/AAAAAAAAG6Y/65bvdug7VEI/s1600/1997.486.7_F.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RNHEhfLV6_w/URrIyzWpFXI/AAAAAAAAG6Y/65bvdug7VEI/s320/1997.486.7_F.jpg" width="134" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1980 - Burda S/S 2012?</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">More detail, procrastination and vital information can be found at the following sites:</span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Givenchy</span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections?ft=givenchy&rpp=60&pg=1</span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">http://www.givenchy.com/</span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">My thanks and credits go to coutureallure.com for images as well as the metmuseum and other images gleaned from Google</span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Next time, I think I'll deviate from my roots somewhat and head across the pond, but not towards a 'designer' but a Hollywood costumier. Any guesses who?</span></span><br />
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Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-74340827233613896722013-02-10T08:49:00.004+00:002013-02-10T08:55:22.358+00:00Rainy Day Welts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have returned full time sewing time to concentrating on my SWAP '13 and I'm currently tackling the bridging garment - a raincoat/trench. This will keep both Audrey and Katherine protected in inclement weather, but perhaps by the time I have it finished summer will be here.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o5MVZyYnUg8/URdc-aJNhsI/AAAAAAAAGyw/JdK9kEaxRkQ/s1600/B4865.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o5MVZyYnUg8/URdc-aJNhsI/AAAAAAAAGyw/JdK9kEaxRkQ/s320/B4865.gif" width="320" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BJ5-y5wbiOU/URdc-ePwgRI/AAAAAAAAGy0/QNrePORvUMQ/s1600/B4865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BJ5-y5wbiOU/URdc-ePwgRI/AAAAAAAAGy0/QNrePORvUMQ/s200/B4865.jpg" width="188" /></a>The fabric is a reversible showerproof and fleece. No, that doesn't quite describe it correctly. On one side is a showerproof taupe twill and on the other side a black jersey. The description on the internet said gold and navy but the navy is so dark that to my eyes, it's black. Regardless, the fabric has been cut to Butterick B4865 (OOP) and lengthened by 20". I bought this pattern for $1 in the OOP sale around Christmas time. I went for style D with turned back cuffs, revers, no official closures and a belt. All style have raglan sleeves which should make it loads easier inserting the sleeves and easier to finish a straight seam rather than a circular one.</div>
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I'm thinking that an unlined jacket will be quick and fairly simple to knock out - in fact Butterick actually wrote the words FAST & EASY on the envelop - well it might be, but a reversible jacket is a whole different ball game. All the seams must be neat and tidy and finished; the collar is proving to be dilemma as I'll seem to have a raw edge somewhere; and how do you hem and finish the raw edges? I can't use interfacing or facing to turn the lapels. There's a lot of thinking to be done on this project yet.</div>
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In the meantime, before I tackle all the problems, I made the pockets. Here is a brief tutorial on making welts and covering up the untidy reverse with a patch pocket - same hole, two entries.</div>
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I made a tie belt while I ponder the finishing techniques. I don't have an overlocker (serger) and although the fabric doesn't fray an unfinished edge is just a bit too casual for this look. Any ideas?</div>
Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com29tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-15985653301322731222013-02-05T09:51:00.000+00:002013-02-05T09:51:34.994+00:00Back to Basics<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After my foray into the <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/dash-for-deadline.html" target="_blank">wild and untamed world of animal print clothing</a> (I suspect Prttynpnk has developed a worldwide sewing-manipulation ray gun and has stashed said weapon thereabouts in her sewing room) AND she managed to make me part with a loved but unused <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/swap-in-small-letters.html" target="_blank">2m of fabric</a>, I happily returned to normal life and sewing without prints of any kind. Interestingly I noticed, when constructing a garment in a plain fabric - every mistake shows up a hundredfold, so precision and accuracy is crucial. Is this the attraction of wild prints? Hiding the flaws? No judgement - just an observation.....I've been there.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BUmYZL_wjT0/URDUNeSXbUI/AAAAAAAAGx8/yYxKd4vutOE/s1600/Slide1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BUmYZL_wjT0/URDUNeSXbUI/AAAAAAAAGx8/yYxKd4vutOE/s400/Slide1.jpg" width="400" /></a>I focused attention and effort to sewing for my SWAP 13. Still on the Audrey side of my Hepburn collection I went for the simplest, but not the the easiest of makes: a good old draped neck blouse, reminiscent of the Givenchy blouse I used as inspiration. I'm on a pattern diet (fast) at the moment so dug out my TNT <a href="http://uniquedesignerpatterns.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Blusa" target="_blank">Paco draped top</a>. </div>
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What could go wrong? A perfectly drafted pattern, <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/attack-stash-plan.html" target="_blank">made so many times in so many fabrics</a>. And fits my requirements for the SWAP perfectly.</div>
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See that point at the centre front? Curses upon you......perfect point!</div>
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I actually reverted to my<a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/pacos-draped-top.html" target="_blank"> own advice </a>to make this point razor sharp: and to my amazement - it worked!<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hoSwVFKFe24/UQxfUbxFuXI/AAAAAAAAGrc/FpyQOxsTy-g/s1600/DSCN3280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hoSwVFKFe24/UQxfUbxFuXI/AAAAAAAAGrc/FpyQOxsTy-g/s640/DSCN3280.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
The inside is a bit messy, what with all the marker pen lines and having to use a white fusible interfacing as it was the only colour I had, but the end result on the outside is fine.<br />
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Separated at birth? (BTW Audrey's the one on the right, just in case you were wondering)Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-15482044883595180392013-02-03T20:04:00.001+00:002013-02-03T21:42:48.854+00:00swap (in small letters)I think I might just have got the idea behind this and what to do about it... <i>just give me a minute - still getting to grips with Pinterest and what it offers.</i><br />
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That devious and manipulating minx of <a href="http://prttynpnk.wordpress.com/2013/02/02/swap-drop-and-roll/" target="_blank">Prttynpnk</a> has had me at it again, good grief, first animal prints and now just handing stuff over to complete strangers - whatever will she think of next?<br />
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Please correct me if I'm way off track here, but I think...... you take something from your stash, reserves of fabric and notion cupboard, etc that you know for sure you personally will never use, however gorgeous it is. And let's face it we have nothing in our homes that we believe to be beautiful or know to be useful...<br />
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You go to <a href="http://pinterest.com/macska/swap-your-stash/" target="_blank">Pinterest</a> and stick up your beautiful item. Folks can then peruse at their leisure the goodies on offer (free). Agree a swap and deal done. Here's my meagre <a href="http://pinterest.com/ruthforrester/swap-items/" target="_blank">Pinterest</a> board - I don't have a stash - sorry, I know that's a disappointment to most of you but there you are - I Purchase for A Purpose - PAP.<br />
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At first I thought Pinterest was Pint rest and couldn't quite figure out the relevance! LOL<br />
Sometimes I love being old 'cause I can make statements like this - ha ha<br />
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So I'm offering this:<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">2m of paisley printed poly.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">150cm wide, drapes beautifully.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Black background, turquoise, light blue, royal blue and pale blue swirls with a bit of white for highlight.</span><br />
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It was purchased for another <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/swap-13.html" target="_blank">SWAP </a>(big letters) but doesn't really fit in with the plan. Breaks my heart but there you go - I'd rather this went to an appreciative home rather than languishing in my fabric box.<br />
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And if you get it, please show me what you make.<br />
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-56751351576575113272013-01-29T21:29:00.001+00:002013-01-29T21:29:07.293+00:00Dash for the Deadline<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y5Q3ZMzViJw/UQeZsa8MSbI/AAAAAAAAGoo/whAOrffc-kw/s1600/DSCN3362.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y5Q3ZMzViJw/UQeZsa8MSbI/AAAAAAAAGoo/whAOrffc-kw/s200/DSCN3362.JPG" width="150" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RIGoYEcrBTc/UQeZsGHE4WI/AAAAAAAAGos/r4U-C98yzS4/s1600/DSCN3359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RIGoYEcrBTc/UQeZsGHE4WI/AAAAAAAAGos/r4U-C98yzS4/s320/DSCN3359.JPG" width="320" /></a>The end of January is fast approaching (hooray - pay day!) and the first <a href="http://prttynpnk.wordpress.com/2012/12/10/jungle-january-in-praise-of-textile-beasties/" target="_blank">Jungle January </a>is drawing to a close. In a last ditch attempt to 'move' into animal prints I online purchased a rather cheap poly chiffon that incorporates, zebra, snake, cheetah, tiger, leopard, spots and a few fleur-de-ly for good measure. I think the postage was more expensive than the fabric!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hw0SH4-7HpU/UQg188XeVcI/AAAAAAAAGqY/NDbw8L1f6xg/s1600/V1247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hw0SH4-7HpU/UQg188XeVcI/AAAAAAAAGqY/NDbw8L1f6xg/s200/V1247.jpg" width="189" /></a></div>
The pattern is a mis-mash of a very easy Vogue shirt and Rachel Comey V1247: there is a back yoke, back pleat, kimono sleeves, a few darts in the front for shaping, shirt tail hem with the back longer than the front, 3/4 sleeves and bias bound V neck. - There, a bit of everything to match the fabric.<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lEs5mChp9a4/UQeZs3L_MmI/AAAAAAAAGo4/-WQRb-Tc-TQ/s1600/DSCN3370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lEs5mChp9a4/UQeZs3L_MmI/AAAAAAAAGo4/-WQRb-Tc-TQ/s640/DSCN3370.JPG" width="400" /></a><br />
Didn't take too long to make either as there is no fitting, no sleeve insertion and the hem is just rolled and machine sewn.</div>
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More importantly to me are the jeans.<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4nN6ilslDKw/UQg18y6Z5HI/AAAAAAAAGqU/pLnqUlRK_BU/s1600/V1204.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="105" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4nN6ilslDKw/UQg18y6Z5HI/AAAAAAAAGqU/pLnqUlRK_BU/s200/V1204.gif" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fcG9zmxKsjM/UQeZs34kL5I/AAAAAAAAGow/X8y2N7IYOdo/s1600/DSCN3369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fcG9zmxKsjM/UQeZs34kL5I/AAAAAAAAGow/X8y2N7IYOdo/s400/DSCN3369.JPG" width="190" /></a>They are Issey Miyake Vogue 1204, not quite skinny but straight legged with front slant pockets and all the usual jean accoutrement. An unusual departure in style for me but I thought I'd give them a go. I normally make boot cut style jeans to balance out the child-bearing hips and I was rather concerned about the front slant pockets bulging out when I sat down. I made them long enough to cover the tops of the snakeskin ankle boots - but short enough so that you can see the boots.</div>
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There are a staggering 12 pieces sewn together to make these jeans, including pocket linings and double of everything apart from the left and right fly - 22 bits plus 5 belt carriers. I think that's a lot of pieces for two legs and a waistband.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R-cscxkh_9Q/UQeZtKKDr7I/AAAAAAAAGpA/Py4dKDkcISM/s1600/DSCN3377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R-cscxkh_9Q/UQeZtKKDr7I/AAAAAAAAGpA/Py4dKDkcISM/s640/DSCN3377.JPG" width="196" /></a>Fabric is a stretch denim that was brown until it was washed and then became olive green. That's OK, I've got lots of things that co-ordinate with them - not least the animal chiffon!<br />
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Most of the fears of the style were unfounded. However, these jeans are LOW, especially in comparison to my usual fit.<br />
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I did my own unique method of achieving the perfect fit in jeans - it goes like this in 10 easy steps:<br />
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1. Cut out a 14<br />
2. Make the fronts and backs with all the pockets and fly<br />
3. Sew up the inside legs as real<br />
4. Stitch the outside legs and centre back with 5mm machine baste stitch<br />
5. Try on inside out and pin out all the excess on the outside legs and centre, especially at the waist.<br />
6. Rip out the basting and stitch on the pin lines.<br />
7. Try on again and pin out any new wrinkles and bagginess<br />
8. Rip and stitch.<br />
9. Fit the waistband to the new size.<br />
10. Attach a button and hem<br />
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Works every time!<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PohflJCNAxQ/UQeZr2wU6iI/AAAAAAAAGok/9K_HKRjP20U/s1600/DSCN3368.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PohflJCNAxQ/UQeZr2wU6iI/AAAAAAAAGok/9K_HKRjP20U/s400/DSCN3368.JPG" width="155" /></a>But that's the problem... I never adjust the paper pattern to take account of these changes so every time I make a pair, I have to go through the whole rigmarole again. However, I have also found that even with a pattern I have adjusted and altered the fit still needs tweaking with every new fabric used. One stretch denim does not behave the same as another stretch denim.<br />
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Money shot coming up.......<br />
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There, I've tried animal print twice this month and I'll have to admit - it's not for me. I will be wearing my <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/put-blame-on-anne-boys-put-blame-on-anne.html" target="_blank">animal print lined dress</a> at a very important meeting this week and if I can muster the courage I might just accessorise with the matching scarf.<br />
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Anne, it's been fun and you've made me go where no other sewer or designer has enticed me to go before. A big thank you for hosting and managing Jungle January; hunting down and displaying all those animal print inspired garments - Meow to you!<br />
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For me, it's time to go back to <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/more-than-dress.html" target="_blank">SWAP</a>.<br />
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<br />Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com42tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9136040603292106359.post-10911532652092555832013-01-26T12:23:00.001+00:002013-01-26T20:31:30.589+00:00Silly Thanks for all the encouraging positive feedback on <a href="http://sewruth.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/for-your-erudition.html" target="_blank">"For Your erudition"</a> post. I enjoyed reading and researching Balenciaga and will definitely be writing more about the other greats.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N2R__yzETzo/UQO9FJFY8hI/AAAAAAAAGnc/DG2wgcwPgr8/s1600/DSCN2910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N2R__yzETzo/UQO9FJFY8hI/AAAAAAAAGnc/DG2wgcwPgr8/s320/DSCN2910.JPG" width="320" /></a>I put up a photo of a garment and then asked you to guess what it was going to be. Many of you guessed correctly - knowledgeable sewists that you are - but I may have given you one too many clues. I also published a pic of the pattern piece, that, when enlarged, had the garment actually printed on it! Silly me!<br />
<i>This has now been removed to keep future readers guessing and by special request of the Centre for Pattern Design, as it is a copyrighted item and some unscrupulous individual may try to replicate the pattern from my crappy photos! Shame on you!</i><br />
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Thanks to you all who notified me of this silly mistake by commenting or e-mailing. It was too late to remove the pic and I've been really busy away from the computer for the better part of a week so never got the time to rectify the problem. Please also regard this post as a 'catch-all' reply to your lovely comments.<br />
All the images (apart from my 2 photos) are Balenciaga designs. All vintage - nothing new.<br />
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Anyway - I shall honour the giveaway promise regardless - for all of you who commented with the correct answer, I put all the names in a hat and pulled out <a href="http://spottydogsocialclub.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">TWOTOAST</a>, who happens to have this quote as her mission statement -<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #660000;"><i> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">“Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman.” Coco Chanel.</span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">l</span>I shall be contacting you soon to see what pattern I have and which one you would like.</div>
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For those of you who missed the post or couldn't figure out the garment - I shall now put you out of your misery.</div>
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A BLOUSE!</div>
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But a blouse with no side seams, no sleeve insertion, one pattern piece and your choice of neck finishes.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #404040; font-family: 'Droid Serif'; font-size: 14px; line-height: 23px;"><i>This full scale pattern is fashioned after one demonstrated by Salvador who managed Monsieur Balenciaga’s tailoring atelier during the Golden Age of Couture in the mid-20th Century. It is a single bias-cut pattern piece which comprises the front, back and spiral sleeve of an easy fitting top. The back hangs in a cowl at the hip and there are no side or shoulder seams. It may be worn open or closed in front. Fits 8 - 16 with adjustments. </i></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8alZTpBidHU/UQO0PmrlMSI/AAAAAAAAGk8/EFdjqN3DzRQ/s1600/DSCN2756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8alZTpBidHU/UQO0PmrlMSI/AAAAAAAAGk8/EFdjqN3DzRQ/s320/DSCN2756.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The pattern is from the <a href="http://www.centerforpatterndesign.com/" target="_blank">Centre for Pattern Design</a>: <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #404040; font-family: 'Droid Serif'; font-size: 14px; line-height: 23px;"><i>Our mission here is to recognize the skill of pattern designing, to educate and provide research for professional development and to explore contemporary applications.</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #404040; font-family: 'Droid Serif'; font-size: 14px; line-height: 23px;"> </span><br />
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They take iconic designs, refine, manipulate, adapt them and produce purchasable patterns that have as few pieces as possible but with impeccable fit and cut: in other words, a brilliant design aesthetic. <br />
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This blouse is inspired by Christobel Balenciaga - remember the simplicity of cut and innovative sleeves are his trademark.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7kBRJJNnenE/UQO6HT1M-pI/AAAAAAAAGms/pz37rg-fiUc/s1600/cb_spiral_blouse_2__73477_zoom_grande.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7kBRJJNnenE/UQO6HT1M-pI/AAAAAAAAGms/pz37rg-fiUc/s320/cb_spiral_blouse_2__73477_zoom_grande.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
The back of the blouse gently folds into a cowl just above the waist - so this is ideal for anyone, like me, with a sway back - the folds disguise all hint of a sticky-out bum.<br />
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The blouse is cut on the bias, so generally there is no need to finish the seams as they won't fray. The two seams that hold the blouse together spiral down from the centre back neckline, around the sleeves to finish at the wrist.<br />
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My first attempt was in a chiffon, so these seams were frenched - look, there's only two seams and a hem!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HlKMpMC-mG0/UQO0QqiPOnI/AAAAAAAAGlM/gIL1sv4GeLs/s1600/DSCN2769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HlKMpMC-mG0/UQO0QqiPOnI/AAAAAAAAGlM/gIL1sv4GeLs/s320/DSCN2769.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The pattern comes with a simple round neckline and I kept this. I sewed poppers along the centre fronts as closures and generally leave the neck to flop open.<br />
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Second one was made in a slightly fancier fabric, patterned poly satin, but this time I added a short tie as a collar; made 6 button holes and used pearl buttons as closures.<br />
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Finally, a printed cotton with a collar. I took the collar pattern from another shirt pattern and just slightly changed the size to fit the neckline of the CB blouse.<br />
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If you're wondering where the finished silver satin version is - it's in the bin! It had a run-in with a too-hot iron. That's the problem with single piece sewing, mess up one area and the whole lot is ruined.<br />
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Please check out the CPD website - they have beautiful patterns for sale, books, classes and lots of information and nice things to look at - another procrastination site!Ruthhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12932941271891297975noreply@blogger.com21