Back to Basics

After my foray into the wild and untamed world of animal print clothing (I suspect Prttynpnk has developed a worldwide sewing-manipulation ray gun and has stashed said weapon thereabouts in her sewing room) AND she managed to make me part with a loved but unused 2m of fabric, I happily returned to normal life and sewing without prints of any kind. Interestingly I noticed, when constructing a garment in a plain fabric - every mistake shows up a hundredfold, so precision and accuracy is crucial. Is this the attraction of wild prints? Hiding the flaws? No judgement - just an observation.....I've been there.

I focused attention and effort to sewing for my SWAP 13. Still on the Audrey side of my Hepburn collection I went for the simplest, but not the the easiest of makes: a good old draped neck blouse, reminiscent of the Givenchy blouse I used as inspiration. I'm on a pattern diet (fast) at the moment so dug out my TNT Paco draped top. 

What could go wrong? A perfectly drafted pattern, made so many times in so many fabrics. And fits my requirements for the SWAP perfectly.

See that point at the centre front? Curses upon you......perfect point!

I actually reverted to my own advice to make this point razor sharp: and to my amazement - it worked!

The inside is a bit messy, what with all the marker pen lines and having to use a white fusible interfacing as it was the only colour I had, but the end result on the outside is fine.

Separated at birth? (BTW Audrey's the one on the right, just in case you were wondering)

Paco's Apron skirt

I was very fortunate this week to receive as a gift two new patterns from Paco Peralta. They are the Treky top and the Apron skirt. I don't have any fabric in the stash for the Treky top and due to circumstances beyond my control, I have been rather house-bound for a few days and didn't get out to go fabric shopping. However, I did have a length of fine checked wool so opted to make the apron skirt first.






You may already know of Paco and his designs - simple, elegant with exquisite cutting and finishing details. I've made quite a few of his patterns and I'm never disappointed. Just go to the Labels box on the right and click Paco for a sample of previous makes.

You’ve got to love Paco and his simple but elegant and classic designs and the very fact that he releases the patterns to the world at large and lets home sewers loose on them but let’s face it, his instructions are weak – actually non-existent. He does a brilliant job of showing construction details and tricks on his blog - http://uniquedesignerpatterns.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/falda-apron-skirt.html but the rest is left up to you.

While I was making this I kept a photo journal and have written instruction sheets, so if you decide to purchase and make this skirt, then download the PDF here. If you want to see how I made the skirt just for the heck of it, download it anyway.

Paco has labelled this skirt as Very Easy: I don't think I'd go that far - there are a few tricky bits - but on the whole it is straightforward.

The front panel is the 'apron'. It is cut separately and sewn in place over the curved front piece.
To make a little bit of interest I cut the apron on a different grainline - hence the darker colour.

My fabric has a fine check (plaid) and I would have liked to try cutting it on the bias but alas, not enough fabric.









I fell stitched the apron by hand so that I could keep control of the curved corners. I must say however, that the pattern pieces fit together flawlessly. See the curve at the top of the side panels? This is shaped so that it is cut on the bias, there is a slight stretch, and so fits perfectly around the hips - genius!

A perfect fitting skirt that will work at the office, home and, made in the right fabric, a night out too.

The back has four panels, invisible zipper and a centre split

The skirt is fully lined, which I also attached by hand. It is straight but not tight, quite conservative but with unique design, formal but just a little bit sexy. Happy girl with her well fitting skirt.

ADDITIONAL PICS: ADDED WHEN I HAD MAKE UP ON AND WITH BETTER LIGHTING
2 days after final construction.

 Worn today with Draped Top from 3 Hours past.. (unfortunately no longer available but if you plague Stephanie, she might re-draft it - it is invaluable) made in a brown knit with chiffon edging, lace up boots and the high waist of the skirt emphasised with a hand made snake skin belt.

Go on, get it. You know you need a good workhorse of a skirt like this.
Disclaimer - not getting paid for this endorsement.

Attack the Stash - Plan A

My stash box lid won't close. 

The problem seems to be leftovers. Don't know about you, but when I buy fabric I buy by the metre - not halves or 0.4m - but full size. Then after I cut and make something I always end up with the halves that I didn't need to buy in the first place. Leftovers that are seemingly too small to make a useful garment and too big to throw out. With our couple of days of holiday this weekend I decided I needed to do something about these bits. I mean I can't buy any new fabric until I have a place to put it.....

So I cleared out the stash box. All the little bits were dumped and the larger bits stacked on the table. 

You may recognise some of the fabrics: we have .5m Fireworks jersey; .75m Boho 4 gore skirt cotton; .5 grey jersey from Don's belt dress and various other bits and pieces collected and stored for years.

Because these have already been cut they are all irregular shapes and sizes. The challenge is to transform them into wearable items. I choose TOPS as the item of metamorphosis and dug out all the patterns that required very little fabric - vest tops, T-shirts  - that sort of thing. I need small pattern pieces that can be twisted and turned and cut off the fold to fit the fabric remnants. They should take little time to sew as I've made them before - not much learning or reading of instructions is required.

Number 1: Silk and cotton blend drapey and soft fabric in red and gold paisley and check pattern. Made up as Paco's draped top.

Arm scythes are bound in bias strips of self fabric. No zip needed as this pulls on comfortably over my head.

Only change made was the centre seam of the lower front V section - cut as two halves due to lack of fabric.

Number 2: Same pattern but in grey marl jersey. 

Wow, same pattern + different fabrics = different looks.

And yes, they're sleeveless - I'm becoming a little more comfortable with that look - but only at home.

I can't believe how well this T-shirt sits - it just drapes so well.

The whole of the front had to have a centre seam because of fabric restrictions but this made getting a sharp point so much easier. Not too much care taken with this one, all sleeves and neck edges were just folded and stitched, then trimmed close to the stitching line. This fabric doesn't fray and the top is meant to be casual anyway.

Number 3: Same again in Boho 4 gore printed cotton

This one doesn't have a V point at the front at all - I just placed both pattern pieces together on the fabric and cut.

The V shape at the front really adds shaping however and so this one is a bit on the 'square' side. I might add some darts later to slim me down a bit.

It's also a bit much with the matching skirt. Must seek out ivory trousers to wear with it.

 Three down......

If I run out of steam there's always Plan B - put it all back in the stash box!

So, go to your stash, rifle through it looking for those 1/2 yds and see what you can rustle up.

Thanks for reading. Ruth

Bed Sheets and Circle Skirts

Linen loom - Getty Images

There was a time in living memory when Northern Ireland was a place that made things - manufacturing, engineering and weaving. But, like so many places today, the factories and looms have closed down and are lying silent. One such example of this decline is just down the road from where I work - The Ulster Weaving Company was originally founded in 1880 and throughout the late 19th and early 20th century, they continued to spin, weave, bleach and finish high quality Irish linen. But alas no more. The company is still in operation but production has moved across the world to cheaper employee markets and the company specialises in small items such as linen and cotton tea towels, aprons and oven gloves. Lovely stuff but not the large king size bedsheets and bolts of fine shirt linen that I used to buy in their factory shop on the way home from work. You can see the products here and by royal appointment too no less.

Anyway, things change.

When the company was still operating I bought all our linen bed sheets and pillow cases. I think they were woven and produced for a posh hotel chain and what was sold in the factory shop were either over-runs or slight seconds, though I've never found a fault. Even in the factory shop the sheets were not cheap, if memory serves me right. StephC wrote a great article earlier this week all about linen - its wonderful properties and heritage, ecology, care and sewing. I have to contradict her on one small point however, she said linen goes on and on and on and never wears out - without going into too much detail, 18 years of marital bliss have most definitely taken their toil on one of my linen sheets. A huge hole just about foot level appeared along with a distinct wearing thin of the fabric in the same general area. I'd thought of repairing the sheet but to remove the worn section and sew the two halves together would have resulted in a too short sheet and us lying on a seam - not comfortable. Much better that I take it into the sewing room and make some clothes!

The sheet has a beautiful edge to the top that I would like to incorporate into a garment somehow.







 





























Sew Weekly was setting a full circle skirt challenge that I didn't participate in but it did set me thinking. Take a moment to go look at all those swirling skirts - fab! I don't think I'd suit a full circle - too much hanging around the hip area and somewhat limited in length too, but I do like a partial circle :)





I reached for TNT Paco's half circle skirt. Designed for knits and jersey like fabrics, I've had relative success with this pattern made up  in cotton, so figured the linen would drape even better. Wrapped around Doris for a test run - you can see the folds from DH's perfect ironing. Why iron a sheet with a whacking great hole in it? Who knows?  But I was grateful that he did and I was encouraged by the freshness and simplicity that this skirt was already promising me.


I cut the longer length of the skirt and I added a white cotton satin lining cut to the shorter length that is included in the pattern. The lining was attached as per Paco's instructions.

The picture of summertime - white linen and bright red and white stripes.

Blinded by the bright April sun, but the temperature was low - hence the boots and not open toed sandals; my white linen skirt was surprisingly insulating. I'd heard that linen (and silk) keep you cool when it's hot and keep you warm, when it's cold. I can testify to that statement.

Worn with StephC's kimono wrap top: this time made in the red & white stripe same as the Three Bears T. And just look at those chevrons down the back - impressed? More pics soon. I think I might be turning into StephC - stripes, linen and her wrap top pattern! Could do a lot worse mind you.

There's enough linen left for a pair of trousers, if I can manage to cut around the hole. Now all I need are tanned and shaved legs, open toe strappy sandals and about another 15 degrees C on the temperature and I'm nearly set for summer.

Finally, yes it does wrinkle.

Thanks for reading. Ruth

Fairy Tales

Opting for easy, quick and casual garments at the moment the next thing on the agenda was a skirt. Once again, picking up a Paco pattern - the simplicity yet great design - I choose the half-circle skirt. Two pieces! Front and back (same piece) and a waistband. Cut on the bias this skirt has excellent drape and is designed for fluid, drapey knits such as jersey. But alas, no fluid, drapey jersey in the stash but a slightly weird Little Red Riding Hood cotton print. There's the girl herself and a wolf (of course) and a rabbit holding up a sign that points the way to "Granny's" all on a pale grey/taupe background. I can't decide if the rabbit is a goody or a baddy.



As an experiment I wanted to test the pattern with a cotton: thinking of summer and picnics on the lawn, sitting on a red gingham blanket with a wicker basket full of food, while the children played happily in the sunshine, laughing and giggling and running barefoot through the daisies; the flower beds in full and glorious colour bloom; butterflies flitting between the sun beams; birds singing sweetly in the boughs above our heads, the bright, fresh green leaves of the old oak tree providing dappled shade - oh wait..... I was in a fairytale there for a minute.


While the cotton certainly does not have the drape of a jersey, it didn't turn out too badly. Quilters beware! I may have to do this again in some of your wonderful fabrics!

Shorter version, without underskirt

With underskirt and twirling

 I cut the shorter length - limited by width yet again - but had fabric left over. Instead of lining the skirt I made an underskirt with a panel of Red Riding Hoods around the hem. This underskirt is separate, acts like a lining and the extra hemline panel adds extra length to the skirt too. One skirt, two lengths!

The underskirt has the effect of tulle as well, so the skirt sits slightly away from the body.

There's no doubt that a swirly full skirt makes you feel more feminine and girly. I've obviously been reading too much of We Sew Retro lately. Look, I even got out the baking book - appropriately named How to be a Domestic Goddess, by Nigella Lawson.

Cupcakes with pink icing, gooey chocolate cake, adoring smiles from my loving family, the smells of home baking wafting though our happy and contented home - whoops, fairytale land again!




I did empty the dishwasher though.



Thanks for reading. Ruth