New - Old Jeans

Having completed one pair of jeans with relative success, I moved almost directly on to a second pair but this time using my own perfect bum pattern pieces (relaxed fit style) and matching the legs of a pair of wide legged Marc Cain RTW.

I've included here some stages that I had left out of the denim series of posts that you may want to consider if making jeans for the first time.

I have ONE very basic Janome sewing machine and NO overlocker (serger), so when I need to do topstitching in a contrast thread I have to re-thread the machine. Therefore, I try to ergonomically design my sewing of jeans so that I can do a lot of topstitching at once. This method also helps with the construction as all the bits are ready to go when needed.

With jeans there are loads of 'bits': pockets, front back and money, belt carriers and fly.  I also discovered during this oddessy of jean making that proper top-stitching thread is actually tan-brown, not yellow or gold as I had previously thought. When it lies next to the denim it lightens and just 'looks' yellow - or is it just my eyes?

This time I did use a brightly coloured  patterned cotton for the pocket linings, fly shield and waistband - cerise pink, royal blue and gold paisley pattern with roses.





















Back pockets have to be topstitched before sewing them to the backs. To achieve almost perfect symmetry on both pockets, I traced my design on bog standard tracing paper and placed this on top of the pocket pieces (greaseproof paper would work well too). Then just sew over the paper following your design lines as closely as possible. The paper just peels away afterwards as you have perforated it with the needle.

 The back side with topstitched pockets attached. They're not perfect and I don't do symmetrical very well but these little nuances prove they're hand made and not churned out by a computerised, automated machine.

I also added a little tab on the left pocket to hint at the colour on the inside.

The money pocket

 Teenage son is now well over 6' tall (2m) and that's why it looks like you're looking down at me - it's his point of view we're experiencing here.


Un-hemmed jeans from the back and side - the legs are really quite loose and wide on this pair but  they are incredibly comfortable.

Worn with another kimono wrap cardigan (unblogged); this time in a fine red wool. I threaded the ties through the belt loops.

BUT.... These jeans reminded me of sensible mummy jeans and I don't want to go there just yet. I think it was the darkness of the denim - too conservative or something - I've also lost my waist somewhere in amongst that 'relaxed' fit  - it was hard to put my finger on it - there was something just not right.

So I got these.......

and did this........

 ...... and a 12 hour soak in the bath with a mild bleach solution;

........a polish with some sandpaper at the pocket edges and along the seams - and ended up with these:









Rather uneven faded jeans, but I think, better than before. Certainly softer and not quite so sensible looking. Good for running around the house and garden in and it doesn't matter if they get dirty or scuffed up - a working pair of jeans is what these are (though I'll take the Hermes off when power hosing the paving!)

Don't be fooled by that sunshine - it was freezing!

Thanks for reading. Ruth

Stepford

What I love most about reading sewing blogs is delving into inspiration from all walks of life - from retro style fitting and tailoring to down and dirty steam punk stuff, and everything in between. I also enjoy sewing my own clothes because I can try out styles and fabrics that I would probably not purchase as RTW.

One of my favourite blogs is prttynpnk - witty, ironic, informative, got attitude but every so often I'm mildly surprised when Anne comes up with cute and pretty. She has a thing about Lisette and Serendipity type patterns and this is one of those occasions when I like reading about them and looking at them, but have always thought - not for me.

I was in a fabric shop in town the other day buying yet more jeans needles when I spotted a darling red cotton - sort of like a quilter's design but softer and MUCH wider. It had occurred to me that all these jeans I'm making will need some tops to go with them and this fabric was just the thing. Needed a pattern though - Simplicity were at half price so I hunted out this one - 3596. It reminded me of Lisette styling but purchasable instantly. So £XXX later with patterned cotton and contrasting cotton, zip, thread, pattern and the jeans needles, went home to try out.







This is the result.

 The top has an underskirt and an over skirt; the bodice, front and back is lined with the plain red that also forms the tie round the middle. Sleeves are a wondrous flared affair that hit exactly the same length as the overskirt. Worn with super red shoes and my best boyfriend style jeans yet (more on these later).

 So cute - but maybe Peter/Cathy would be more interested in this as maternity wear? Wee bit pregnant looking?

22" zip in the centre back but I think the cotton is not as floaty as the pattern picture.

On the whole, I was fairly pleased with myself.  A new style that I thought I wouldn't like but I do. The top is long enough to cover the bum and loose enough to eat a four course dinner. Got my long sleeves which is a must, and the colours really lift any shade of denim you wish to throw at it.

DH rarely comments on my clothes unless he hates them - the Yeti coat or loves them - the startling gym slip dress; otherwise he just ignores what I wear. But this was so out of my comfort range that I did actually ask out loud for an opinion. Shouldn't have bothered.........

"You look like a Stepford wife."

Not quite what I had in mind when making this - I was thinking more along the lines of vaseline smeared David Bailey lenses, waist high wheat fields, soft sunlight and that 1970s air of blissful tranquility in a Cadbury Flake advert kind of thing - Oh wait, that IS Stepford, however, I still the know the meaning of the word archaic.

I'm afraid I wasn't such a good Stepford wife the night before these photos - hence the bags under my eyes and general pallor.....

What I'm still trying to figure out is when your husband says you look like a Stepford wife is this a compliment or an insult?

Thanks for reading. Ruth

Belted

In between jeans experiments my super belt arrived from Don and I was dying to have a perfect dress to wear it with. I wanted this (left) - an image I have carried with me from childhood - but obviously a wee bit more suited to a woman of my age and sensibilities. By the way, Don has just started a women's wear range - fabulous designs, unusual but completely wearable - I just know it will be a huge success for him.

Vogue 7898

I dug out Vogue OOP 7898 and made some rather drastic alterations. This is a mock wrap dress with a loop/tie and asymmetrical hemline, but I wanted simple and plain. I cut the left hand side twice and knocked off the slanted hem line and went for longer length all round. Here's the mock up on Doris - with the belt. I used a grey marl cotton jersey that doesn't fray, clings a bit so I either need excellent foundation garments or none at all!



I sewed the two left front mock wraps into the side seams so no tie fastening was required, but I kept the wrap loose below the waist. I cut a curve around the wrap bottom but didn't hem it - it's just the raw edge. I did finish the neck edge and the sleeve hems though.

Not quite as svelte as the model in the macramé belt from 1972 but then I'm guessing she isn't as svelte today either. Ahh time.....

That sunshine is for real! Warm and sunny spring evening and out with the girls for dinner and a chat.
I'm going to make another one of these - easy to sew, easy to wear and doesn't detract from the simplicity of the belt. But what colour next?

Have you ever made something just to match or wear with an accessory?


Thanks, as ever, for reading. Ruth

Not Boyfriend's - MINE

At long last - the finished Boyfriend jeans.

And the sun came out to welcome them and I wore my new red shoes.

I think I changed the fitting so much at the crotch and inside leg that they no longer resemble a boyfriend style but are a just a pair of jeans.

 The eagle-eyed among you will notice the bias cut yoke pieces to make the most of the pinstripe denim. I topstitched in blue thread as I thought there was enough going on with the stripes and a contrast thread would be too much

You won't often see a photo of me from this direction!

 Coin pocket was cut on the cross grain for horizontal lines for added visual interest.

What's better in life than a white shirt and a pair of jeans?

The legs of these jeans are just great as they taper slightly towards the ankles so that when you fold up a cuff there's no gathering of fabric.

I hope you have enjoyed this little mini-series about jeans and found some of it useful. I'm in a jeans mood now and plan to crank 'em out over the next few weeks. I have one more post about the order of construction that is based on Sandra Bettizna's method that is so much better that Hot Patterns instructions and makes that final fitting so much easier too.  With all these jeans planned I'm also starting to think about tops to wear with them so I'll try to mainatain your interest with more than just jeans.

Thanks for reading. Ruth

Denim Tips 5 - Waistband

In  Number 3 of this series I recommended cutting the right hand waistband 2" longer - this is reason why. You can see the waistband is not long enough to catch the fly shield. I carried on with this method but in the finished jeans the fly shield is loose inside.

The left hand side should line up exactly with the fly opening. The instructions say to make a vertical button hole - don't do this - make a horizontal one - less strain and pulling. 

1 -Belt Carriers

1. Position the belt carriers around the waistband and machine baste in place. Two at the front, one at centre back and two towards the sides. Put them on upside down and right sides together. You may want to check the depth of the carriers if you have a favourite belt to make sure it threads through them first before sewing.

 2. Sew the two waistbands, left and right, together making sure of your fit first. Pin this to the top of your jeans. Then VERY carefully start to sew. You will be sewing over the zip so hand turn the needle over the zip teeth to avoid another broken needle then whizz around until you come the other end and go just as carefully.

2 - Sewing over the zip

 3. Check that the two sides line up by pulling up the zip. If not, rip out a little bit and reposition for the new sewing line. Now cut off the top of the zip. Cut between the teeth to save your scissors.

3 - Cut off the zip

4. Sew the waistband lining pieces together and right sides together, sew to the top of the denim waistband. Trim and press down. Fold under a hem on the facing and pin in place to cover the bottom of the waistband on the inside.

5. Top stitch the waistband from the outside.

6. Fold up the belt carriers to line up with the top of the waistband and stitch securely in place.

Hope this helps.
Next time....... the finished jeans. - Hurrah!

Thanks for reading. Ruth