And to make me even happier Anon has stopped commenting too. So thanks for the advice on that front too.
So back to Rive....
A cotton/linen mix in soft black. I'm not a big fan of black but I'm trying to introduce it gradually into my wardrobe, especially when I see the creations that Shams and Margy produce in monochrome. I know that black on black does not work for me so I always aim to add a splash of colour somewhere to lift it.
While the jacket is cooling and drying, gather the sleeve crown on the sleeves with a loose running stitch. Pull the threads to create the familiar gathers and secure them. Now press the crown, shrinking out the gathers to create a smooth and curved shape to the sleeve.
Hopefully by now, the two are a better fit for each other - the sleeve head and the sleeve crown - so carry on and insert the sleeve in your preferred manner. One word of caution and that is keep the sleeve hanging straight - don't twist it or pull it.
Sew in the shoulder pads for real and always, always, insert some wadding in the sleeve head for shape and structure. See a good tailoring book on how to do this properly. These books are worth their weight in gold for this instruction alone and even if you are only making a casual jacket, like this one, a perfect sleeve is worth it.
And there is it - no puckers or gathers - went in first time and hangs beautifully.
And the Rive Gauche blue?
For the lining, my dears, and the working sleeve hems to roll up and reveal the flash of colour. And I'll look just like Claudia Winkleman from the Great British Sewing Bee.
Vented pockets with flaps
Three buttons, not one
I have a similar coloured blouse made years ago which accidentally matches well. So I have my black and my colour.