Stars and Stripes

Nothing looks neater and better finished than a garment whose stripes match up. I had a bit of red and white striped cotton jersey remaining from my foray into T-shirt drafting and quickly knocked up another kimono wrap top, designed by Stephanie of Three Hours Past... this is actually my fifth one. I love it so much - it's easy to sew and easy to wear. In previous versions I've left off the centre back seam for speed but with this one I kept it in just so that I could get a chevron spine.

You can't match up stripes in every direction and at every seam - this is one of the wraps, but no one will see that as it will be tied around my waist.

Look at the patterns the stripes make as they wrap around - oh dizzying! On the left - tied at the back and on the right wrapped all the way around and tied in front.

And here's some super stars who took the time and matched their stripes too:

Shams 

Laura Mae

Mujerboricua with her ginger skirt chevrons

Frankie's dress

Cynthia

Thanks for reading. Ruth

KWT II

You may remember my disaster with grain-lines over Christmas and the wasted rib knit fabric that didn't make it into a long Burda cardigan.... but did make it to the bin! I salvaged a bit and had a bit left over - just enough for a more substantial kimono wrap top to suit this time of year.

I lengthened the sleeves all the way to wrist this time. As a bulkier knit than the first version tying the wraps in a knot also feels bulky, so I fastened the front with a decorative pin. Makes it into a dressier look too.

I've tried to brighten the pictures as much as possible so you can see the ribs in the charcoal knit and the lovely patterns they make when crossed over.

As this was the second time making the pattern, this wrap top was made in under 2 hours. I reckon if you are lucky enough to have a serger (overlocker) you could shave another 30-40 mins off.

You know, one of the best things about this pattern is you don't need to wear anything underneath because the wraps are so 'wrappy'.

It is mega secure too - no shifting about when you move either and no constantly pulling the wraps together at the front.

How many wraps tops can you say that about?










Thanks for reading. Ruth

Somewhere over the Rain........

Now that I've subliminally planted that ear-worm here are some pics to go along with it.

McCalls 6247

Rainbow Missoni (not real) knit from stash


2yds but only 45" wide - damn that stash!
So no sleeves, but nice yoke detail at the back.

Oh and I added a draped collar thing from another pattern. I didn't realise how sheer and un-fluid this was until I saw these photos.















I don't even know if this type of garment has a name...

Sleeveless cardigan?

Long waistcoat (vest)?

SF top? (stash fabric)

I would wear this on the yacht in the summer but ours is in the ship yard this year being remodelled and having a helipad fitted - bummer huh? Just when I have the perfect cover-up for my itsy-bitsy bikini?














Thanks for reading. Ruth

3 Cheers for 3 Hours Past....

Burda Style Magazine 2012

The next item to be sacrificed from the stash was the fine ivory knit. I was planning on a ballerina-at- practice type of wrap cardigan. While I neither have the poise or the body (I put it down to genetics) I thought one of those would look good with a swirly skirt and even high waisted trousers (pants) in spring / summer.  I don't do sleeveless even in 36 degrees C, especially in 36 degrees, and this would be just right as a cover up. I found a pattern in Burda Style Magazine - YIKES - lines and colours and A B C D sheets and tracing and time and .... oh just forget it. I am basically lazy and couldn't be bothered with all that crap.

However, there was not a pattern out there in whole wide world that met with my stringent requirements so I was gearing up to do the tracing thing - went into training and all - when Stephanie from 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World posted about a little 1950s Advance 7701 pattern for a kimono wrap top that she'd been working on. I was so jealous - this was exactly what I wanted, but how to get my grubby little hands on it?

I retired to the hollowed out volcano to devise a plan. I developed a behavioural-neural influencing ray and set the coordinates for Brisbane, specifically at Stephanie's house. And it worked!

Not long after I zapped her with the ultra-infra-high-frequency-thingy-that only dogs can hear, she transposed the 1950s pattern into her own design and created a pattern that we all can have. I made her stay up for a whole week so that she could finish it in time for my sewing schedule this weekend. She didn't sleep or eat or cook dinner until this beautiful wrap top pattern was complete. And the funny thing is, she thinks she did this all of her own choice. Ha Ha Ha. Ha Ha!

I got first pick (of course, that was part of the grand plan) at the pattern on Friday as a proof reader and tester.

The instructions are clear, ordered with just the right amount of personality that proves that a real person designed this for other real people. Stephanie included photos at various steps throughout which proves she has made and tested the design too - so knows the pitfalls and areas to watch. She gives fabric amount and width, even the sewing needles you should be using - sooo considerate.

It is a downloadable pattern in 24 sheets (plus the instructions) and I could just about manage that - but there's only three pieces - it's really no big deal. I tiled and lined up the sheets, taped them together and cut out. The top is really made from one big piece (cut twice), a neck band and the ties are separate so that you can choose a wrap or a draped version. Two patterns in one - I love that.

Right, now on to this stash thing.

It really isn't working for me. I had this fine knit just sitting waiting to be used - 2yds - plenty you would think, BUT, it's only 50" wide! Maybe I should read the small print. For this top I need
1 3/4 yds at min 55" wide. I was undeterred and determined. I marked out the bias grain line and used that instead of the straight or cross-grain lines. That way I could get the one big piece to fit onto the fabric albeit diagonally.

From then on everything proceeded as per the instructions and today's plan. Unfortunately, I do have to stop for lunch and messages (errands) and other stuff, but best guess is this took 3 hours maximum to complete. 

I deviated slightly from the instructions on the following points: Added tape to the neck edge to stabilise it - remember I cut on the bias. Lengthened the ties - the pattern is for a 30" waist, and I don't have a 30" waist. I  also slip stitched the neckband in place as I'm a big scardy chicken when it comes to stitching in the ditch. I made the bracelet length sleeves.

I have a very basic Janome sewing machine and normally I only use the straight stitch, the zig-zag and the button hole. Today I tested another one and created a little fancy edge thing to the sleeves. I don't have an overlocker (serger) so I zig-zagged all the raw edges of this knit to stop the unravelling.

I said this was a fine ivory knit, what I should have said was that this is a VERY fine ivory knit. Regardless - here is it and don't I look just like a ballerina (retired). Paired with Paco's half-circle skirt for extra ballerina styling

The back (obviously)

Wrapped around waist and tied in front

Tied at the back

Pulled down over hips

 There's more than one way to wear this top too.

So.....
Designed by 3 Hours Past
Takes 3 hours to make
Wear it 3 ways

I say 3 cheers for Stephanie!

To get your own pattern for this super kimono wrap top to go Craftsy.

And to read about the trials and tribulations this girl went through go here.

Thanks for reading. Ruth

and now for something completely different....

I've been blogging for nearly two months and looking back over the posts I've made in that time has  made me re-evaluate my style. Are the clothes I make boring? (well maybe). But there's nothing in my wardrobe that says extraordinary, avant-garde, designer - WOW - set the world alight! I think what I make is SAFE: conventional clothes.

Leading up to the Christmas period I set to sewing stuff I would never have contemplated before. I rattled up a few things that I would probably never buy as RTW and pushed the comfort zone perhaps into mutton territory. Anyway, it's only you and me and a few close friends who have seen me in this stuff, so no member of the general public was traumatised or harmed in any way........and now for something completely different.......

Full length long haired white fur coat, patterned jersey scoop neck (sleeveless) T-shirt,
(p)leather Clovers.

The Clovers turned out just fine - though more adjustments were needed with a different fabric but not many. I omitted the pockets this time, really to save time but also to go for a smoother finish at the front.

The really good thing about the Clovers is that you can wear boots over them without the ugly and uncomfortable bunching up of fabric around the knees and they look just as good with a pair of shoes.








I avoided the invisible zip on this pair and went for a partially  exposed jeans zip - chunky metal teeth. A bit wiggly at the end because you only get to sew (p)leather once, so mistakes just have to be lived with.

 The problem with (p)leather is when you sew you puncture the fabric and every drop of the needle leaves a hole and no amount of steam pressing is going to take them out. Talking of pressing - use a pressing cloth - the last thing you want is melted (p)leather all over your ironing plate.  When sewing you can take in but never let out without a row of holes showing, so it's crucial that you're happy with the seams before you sew at all. Of course, you can't pin or tack (baste) either except in the seam allowance so trying on is somewhat difficult - bit of guess work really and just hope for the best. Sew large, try on inside out and mark up the take-in with tailor's chalk. One other thing - use a fairly large stitch length, minimum 2.5mm, as this row of puncture holes will act as a perforated edge and your trousers (pants) will just rip apart the first time you sit down!

The other problem is that the (p)leather sticks to the foot and the plate in the machine. You can buy a Teflon foot specifically for the purpose but time and £££ were an issue for me here. The Heath Robinson solution is to sandwich the fabric between two bits of greaseproof paper.  Once sewn, gently pull the paper away.

Try to sew as much as possible with the (p)leather to the inside to avoid this but hemming is the one place it can't be dodged.

I used a jeans needle in the machine too.

The T-shirt is McCalls M6078. Two pieces, front and back, both cut on the fold - wee buns!

It has a scooped neckline and the pattern comes with a variety of finishes and options. My fabric came from Tissu and is a four-way stretch lycra.

Burda 11/2011

The coat pattern is Burda magazine 11/2011 Fur Coat. I downloaded the pattern and printed it out; matched up all the A4 sheets and cut out a 42. With faux fur you want to keep the pattern as simple as possible - this coat has a back, two fronts and one piece sleeves. Each piece has to be cut out on single fabric as the fur was so thick the scissors wouldn't cut through. Also with fur, just cut the backing fabric not the fibres.

I made some alterations to the original - lowered the neckline and added a rolled collar with the intention of attaching fur hooks to the collar as a closure. I also lengthened the coat by 30cm (12") for a more luxurious feel.

The black satin lining is cut from the same pieces.

As most faux furs have a knit fabric as the base there is a little stretch inherent in the fabric. I used this to insert the sleeves before the sides were sewn. No easing of sleeve caps is needed as you sew the sleeve on the flat like a shirt sleeve. Sew the shoulder seams, mark your natural shoulder length on the fabric and match up the centre sleeve with the shoulder seam and pin the armhole edges together. Gently stretch the fronts and backs to fit the arm scythe as you sew. No easing, no wrinkles, no gathers.

The verdict?

When DH saw me in this, and I quote, "You're not going all glamourous are you?" So obviously he prefers the safe-look, or in his words, classic. However, he does like the (p)leather Clovers - as do I - so I think a second pair in tan or light brown might be just around the corner.

The coat is a no-no. It tickles my face and neck and is just too much Yeti for my liking. Added to which, I make a full-length fur coat and the temperatures here are sitting at a balmy 14 degrees Celsius, about 57 F.  Teenage son's friend wants some furry cushions for his bedroom/pad so this is probably where the coat will end up.

The T-shirt is grand - I'll keep it and make many more for summer time.

All in all, two out of three ain't bad.




Thanks for reading. Ruth

Variations on a Theme

Well, time is moving closer to December 25th and I haven't a mince pie baked yet. I like cooking and baking but I'd rather sew.

I love tie/scarf necked blouses - reminiscent of Chanel, I guess - but all my existing patterns were laborious and consisted of loads of pieces - I wanted something quick and easy but still looked the part. Kwik Sew 3782. This is my first Kwik Sew pattern and quick and easy it certainly is. Are they all like that? The photo on the envelope is dreadful and was nearly enough to put me off but I desisted the urge of putting it back, thinking I could do some tweaks to make it better. I don't do sleeveless and the 3/4 length sleeves weren't doing it for me either - but the neckline is great, front and back are both cut on the fold and there are no darts!

The following are images of 5 (yes, 5) that I've made so far. Each one has full length sleeves but with a different sleeve finish.

1. Abstract patterned poly-satin in mauve/grey/cerise.

The bell shaped sleeve was cut to the original pattern length, pleated and sewn into a simple cuff band at the wrists. Dressy, for work or dining out.

2. Traditional shirting cotton in pale blue and white stripes.
Sleeve was lengthened, gathered into a broader cuff to more resemble a shirt and was inserted in the same method as if you were making a shirt. Casual, jeans navy trousers(pants) but can be dressed up when tucked in to a navy skirt.

















3. Burgundy chiffon - need a camisole under this one.
Sleeve was lengthened to wrist and gathered into elastic. This creates a 'puffed' sleeve effect just right for the fabric. Definitely dressy.

4. This is a bright pink chiffon ordered from Fashion Fabrics club (Fashion by the Yard). Yes, that's what I thought when I opened the parcel! Obviously a mistake with the barcode. It really is the most boring fabric with horrible colours, but it is silk and lay at the bottom of the box until I found this pattern. The sleeves on this version are folded over and inserted into a cuff band. The cuff was then folded over and a button and button hole added. It's not a real cuff just made to look like one. The blouse looks alright with jeans and under a coat buttoned up the neck!

5. Finally, black and white chiffon. This used to be a sarong that a friend of my mother's gave me - thinking I could make something from it - so I did. I used the already finished edges as guides for the hem of the blouse and the edges of the sleeves - saved me from hemming them and gave me the straight of grain without a measuring tape! Here I lengthened the blouse and of course the sleeves. I zig-zagged black knicker elastic about 5cm (2") from the sleeve hem that sits at the wrist and the flounce hangs over the back of my hand. Both the blouse body and sleeves were lengthened.

Also, check out Loves2Sew's version. She made the same blouse in the most beautifully spring-like fabric with 3/4 sleeves. Great job! Inspiring each other.

I realise that my hanging versions of this blouse are not very inspiring - so here's a picture of it tucked in to a skirt and what a difference a little bit of styling makes.

Here's me wearing the same skirt but with the burgundy chiffon version and Vogue 8333 made last year.














Thanks for reading. Ruth