Sunday, 6 November 2011

One I Made Earlier

 This is one I made earlier -  last year actually. In complete contrast to yesterday's 3 piece jumper, this jacket took 6 weeks to make. It was my first tailoring adventure so there was a lot of learning along the way.

I depended heavily on Claire's own book of Couture Techniques and the pattern instructions as well. Most of all I trawled the internet looking for advice and techniques that all you other sewers could provide - and I was not disappointed. Really useful was Paco's tutorial on collars and lapels and general tailoring and Pattern Review's Inside an Armani Jacket. If you are making a tailored jacket I cannot recommend these sites highly enough.

As I've already completed this one I can't show you the complicated inside construction or the millions of hand stitches, but I can show you some details. 

This project was a labour of love.

The fabric is a fairly heavy wool, heather-like pink with a small fleck bought at my local fabric shop - but not cheap.
The lining is a beautiful rich burgundy satin that just makes the jacket slip on and off effortlessly.

The sleeves were sewn at least three times on both sides until they were almost perfect (I can still see the flaws).

The lapels were measured to the millimetre about a hundred times to try and make sure they matched.

Then I couldn't decide on buttons - so opted for covered ones.

However, I've worn this jacket loads of times and despite the colour it goes with almost anything.


MISSES’/MISSES’ PETITE JACKET: Semi-fitted, lined, partially interfaced, below waist jacket has princess seams, slightly extended shoulders, shoulder pads, in-seam pockets with pleats, side panels (no side seams), shaped hem, and long two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents. A: underlined and couture construction techniques.

Here is virtually invisible pad stitching holding the canvas interfacing to the back of the lapel for stiffness and shape.

You can just see the luxurious lining and my label.

Here is the inside sleeve detail - the sleeve linings were sewn by hand. 

Detail of the hand bound button hole and the covered buttons on the front.

 And the sleeve vent. The pattern called for only one button here but I thought three looked better. I did cheat here 'cause I was getting a bit fed up by this stage and wanted the thing finished - I didn't make button holes - the buttons are sewn through all thicknesses to keep the vent closed. But, only you and I know this - it's not obvious when I'm walking down the street.

Finally, me wearing the jacket demonstrating the hidden pockets in the jacket's side pleats.

Sorry about the dark pictures but the sun was just going down.

Today it is paired with V1136 vintage Vogue dress and jacket, but I made the dress into a skirt in the finest burgundy wool, and on top a burgundy chiffon scarf blouse.

I'll publish posts about these items soon.

I've made this jacket since last year in Linton tweed - I'll try and post this one too.

Hopefully, I look a little better than yesterday's photo.

Thanks for reading

No comments:

Post a Comment